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In Dining
La Dolce Vita brings Moroccan to Milwaukee
La Dolce Vita owner Tarik El Bahmi.
By Julie Lawrence RSS Feed Twitter Feed
OnMilwaukee.com Staff Writer
Photography by Whitney Teska
E-mail author | Author bio
More articles by Julie Lawrence

Published April 7, 2009 at 8:21 a.m.
Tags: la dolce vita, moroccan food, morocco, pastilla, casablanca

In mid-March a new Moroccan restaurant called La Dolce Vita replaced the former Cousin Subs at 1673 N. Farwell Ave.

The eatery is another addition to the stretch of Farwell occupied by a milieu of various ethnicities -- Ethiopian, Indian, Thai, Turkish -- but nothing quite like La Dolce Vita has been done before in Milwaukee.

Although other restaurants have incorporated these flavors into an all-encompassing Mediterranean theme, owner Tarik El Bahmi says only his is representative of the authentic mix of Moroccan food with influences from Italy, France and Spain.

El Bahmi was born in Casablanca and lived there for 19 years, and this, he says, is how it's done in his homeland.

"What's unique about Morocco is that it is in Africa, but it's so close to Europe," he says. "We are not Africans, not Arabs and not Europeans, but a mix of all," he says.

And the food is an immediate and flavorful refection of the ethnic mash-up.

Spices like saffron and cumin are some of Moroccan food's biggest allies and dishes like Zaalok, fresh eggplant grilled and mashed with tomatoes, garlic and spices, and the world famous pastilla -- Morocco's decadent version of a chicken pot pie topped with cinnamon and powdered sugar -- are savory demonstrators.

At times the menu, which offers lunch and dinner daily from 11 a.m. until midnight (and until 3 a.m. on the weekends), showcases the country's proximity to Spain by offering tortilla del malaga, traditional Spanish tortilla with wild mushrooms, potatoes, bell peppers, onions and garlic aioli, and calamari a la plancha. The calamari is El Bahmi's own family recipe and rather than have his chef Saad Berrada prepare it, he prefers to make it himself each morning before opening the restaurant.

Other times, the menu turn to Italy with its selection of Italian style flat breads, which act like pizza when cheese and toppings are added.

Overall, the blending of cuisines at La Dolce Vita proves to be both interesting and accessible and the environment -- stark white walls and booths accented with pops of bright blue and orange -- make it a clean, comfortable and enjoyable place to grab a quick lunch or enjoy a relaxing dinner.

El Bahmi has selected a pleasant and diverse wine list (and features half-priced bottles during happy hour Sunday through Thursday) and offers beer from around the globe.

Service is friendly and prompt, making La Dolce Vita is a refreshing and welcome East Side accruement.



More Information ...
La Dolce Vita
1673 N. Farwell Ave.
Milwaukee, Wi 53202
(414) 277-7750
http://www.mydolce-vita.com

5 comments about this article.
Post a comment / write a review.

Recent Talkbacks ...

Posted by ILoveFood426 on May 19, 2009 at 1:57 a.m. (report)

The menu is short and sweet. It may not be large but everything I've tried on it thus far has been great. Definitely a good choice to have meal

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Posted by eastsidefoodlova on April 13, 2009 at 8:15 p.m. (report)

What a welcomed addition to the East Side restaurant family! I have been there for lunch and to pick up carry-out food twice. The service is genuinely friendly, you can see that they take honest pride in their food. My favorites: the Zaalouk salad and Harira soup make me long for my time in Fez and Casablanca. I tried the couscous dinner special one night and hope that it will be a regular on the menu. I haven't had any food that is less than excellent in quality. The restaurant is also open until 2am on the weekends for late night munchies (much better than pizza)

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Posted by mkelvr on April 8, 2009 at 8:55 a.m. (report)

Milwaukee did have a Moroccan restaurant about 8 years ago called Jaffar's cafe. Sadly it closed down. Wish this one better luck but am surprised to see no Tagine's mentioned

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Posted by jkashou on April 7, 2009 at 9:37 a.m. (report)

The pastilla is seriously to die for and the calamari is some of the best I've had! The menu is really a nice variety of all good things Mediterranean.

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Posted by LegallyBlonde on April 7, 2009 at 9:07 a.m. (report)

Everything was excellent on my first trip last week. I give it favre stars.

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