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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Tuesday, Sept. 16, 2014

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In Bars & Clubs

Steny replaced the building's white siding with real stone, giving the pub a cottage feel. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Bars & Clubs

Expect more entrees to even out the sandwich selection on the menu in the coming weeks. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Bars & Clubs

Cream cheese stuffed mushrooms might not be Irish, but they are delicious. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Bars & Clubs

The interior feels fresh and clean with new paint, new floors and a beautiful antique bar, (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

The Dubliner shines in Walker's Point


Many of the young patrons at Milwaukee's new Dubliner gastropub probably don't remember the city's first bar of the same name. It was in a different, yet nearby, location, 922 S. 2nd St., and was one of the most authentic Irish bars in town. It closed 13 years ago.

Jerry Stenstrup remembers it well. As the owner of Steny's across the street, he's been a regular staple in the Walker's Point neighborhood for since the early '80s and always had an appreciation for his Irish neighbor.

This March, just in time for St. Patrick's Day, he opened a stunning new version of The Dubliner at 124 W. National Ave. as a tribute to the former incarnation.

The building used to house Switch, a small gay bar that closed in 2008 after a nine-year run, but to look at it, you'd never know it was the same place. Stenstrup, or "Steny" as he's often referred to, did a complete remodel of the existing space, transforming the exterior from white siding to stone -- yes, it's real -- giving it an authentic cottage feel.

Inside, the pub glimmers and shines from fresh, earth-toned paint, a wall of windows encouraging brilliant western exposure in the afternoon and the rich, honey-tinged hardwood floors. Everything about this place looks and feels brand new and clean, yet manages to be as cozy and friendly as you'd want a neighborhood Irish pub to be.

Stenstrup and his team also greatly expanded the building, adding a large, long kitchen in back to fulfill The Dubliner's label as a gastropub. The lengthy menu features traditional Irish fare (corned beef, lamb) as well as other Americanized comfort foods (pulled pork sandwiches and gourmet grilled cheeses.)

Sandwiches dominate the menu at this point, but the kitchen has plans to soon introduce a more entree-heavy menu. Side options include your choice potato salad, mashed potatoes, homemade chips or thick steak fries. A tangy, horseradish-kissed coleslaw complements each dish.

In Irish fashion, the bar -- a gorgeous vintage piece dating back to the 1920s that Steny rescued from another Walker's Point establishment -- is the focal point of the pub, and has phrases like "The truth comes out when spirits come in" painted on the walls above it. And, of course you'll find Guinness and Magners Irish Cider, but you'll also find craft brews from other regions, both near (New Glarus Cabin Fever) and far-ish (New Belgium Ranger I.P.A.).

Just past the bar is a vast mural of the Irish countryside's rolling hills and crumbling castles merging with downtown Dublin and the world-famous Guinness brewery. Stenstrup commissioned Milwaukee-area artist Chris Vincent to paint the 30-ft. work of art, which takes its inspiration from his recent trip to the Emerald Isle. Visually, it guides your eyes to the back wall, which boasts a great stone fireplace.

On St. Patrick's Day, a pair of west-facing patio doors opened up to an outdoor tent in the adjacent parking lot, which hosted drinks, music and general shenanigans. But by the time the Irish holiday rolls around again (actually, much before that -- Stenstrup is aiming for summer), a permanent outdoor beer garden will stand where the tent once was and extend the length of the pub.

Slainte!

Talkbacks

tufluv | April 26, 2010 at 5:34 a.m. (report)

Nice remodeling, but feels too STERILE/Cold and way to BRIGHT inside! The food has been very mediocre, but fresh. DOESNT seem very AUTHENTICALLY Irish...kind of a copy..like CHI CHI'S!!!

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Tiger | March 26, 2010 at 2:57 p.m. (report)

Congrats to Steny on the new Irish bar. I did not know it opened, so I'll be going down to check it out soon. I know he does a great job on the food & drink specials at the original, I am sure this place will do well. happy St Pat's -yes, I know it was 10 days ago.

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jjrakman | March 26, 2010 at 2:57 p.m. (report)

Really nice place. But it is a bit bright inside, it always feels like bar-time in there, like it's always time to go.

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slipping | March 26, 2010 at 2:38 p.m. (report)

I agree with curly boy...I've been and it does look/feel like the Olive Garden inside! Too bad. Good beer selection though, I'll give them that!

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alba | March 22, 2010 at 10:52 a.m. (report)

Smoke free, or more like Stenys?

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