When the Zilli family recently hosted an open house to provide a sneak peek at its new restaurant, Coast, the room may not have been packed to the gills, but there were a lot of satisfied smiles on those in attendance.

As a jazz duo played, the restaurant, which celebrates the cuisine of America's coastal regions, dished up a selection of appetizers -- refreshingly light ones alongside sumptuously satisfying ones -- and drinks in its new location in O'Donnell Park at the foot of Wisconsin Avenue in the shadow of the Milwaukee Art Museum's wings.

Nola's thrived here for a while and the space held a family restaurant before that, but Coast seems to be taking the right approach to long-term success. At the preview event a number of employees of nearby law firms and other offices were on hand. It is this crowd of lunch and dinner wine-and-diners that can provide Coast with a steady flow of customers.

And, if the appetizers are any indication, those diners will be satisfied with a mix of seafood and other treats. Although the main menu items weren't available at the event, the Zillis promise San Francisco Cioppino (it's refreshing to see a local restaurateur that realizes this is a Bay Area, and not a Italian-born, dish); Hawaiian Ahi tuna served with coconut jasmine rice and caramelized pineapple puree; Jerk grouper and other tempting dishes.

The dining room is classy but in an understated way. A curvaceous bar faces a light-hued dining area, with an elevated lounge area and a view out to the patio and, beyond, the Art Museum and Lake Michigan. The place has the feel of a old-time upscale hotel dining room and bar. But if the vibe is old-style, the food feels up to the minute.

We sampled the bleu cheese tater tots; popover bread pudding; endive leaves with cream cheese, chopped vegetables and figs; crab cakes; lobster salad and more. And we loved each one, although, embarassingly, we could be spied illicitly following the servers that offered the crab cakes and the out-of-this-world popovers.

Coast, 931 E. Wisconsin Ave., opened to the public on Thurs., Aug. 7. Visit Coast online at www.coastrestaurant.com or call (414) 727-5555 for opening hours and reservation information.