Two things that everyone is talking about nowadays are eating locally and comfort foods. Both come together on the new menu at Kilawat, of which I got a sample in a tasting menu lunch recently.

Executive Chef Robert Ash, while explaining the dishes on the new menu at Kilawat in the Intercontinental Hotel -- where the menu changes about three times annually -- regaled with tales of picking apples at Apple Holler, buying produce at the Cathedral Square farmer's market and seeking out other fresh goodies from local producers.

He stressed his passion for cooking this way -- not a rare thing these days, thankfully -- and he also displayed a pretty amazing knowledge of the area and its culinary traditions and tastes considering he arrived here less than a year ago to helm the snazzy Kilawat, which offers a great view out toward City Hall, the Marcus Center and Red Arrow Park.

The dishes on the new menu are simple, but elegantly presented and most Milwaukeeans will be thrilled to recognize them and to be able to pronounce their names.

A bacon wrapped meatloaf was so tender it melted in the mouth; it was unlike any meatloaf this diner has ever sampled. It came upon a bed of garlic mashed potatoes with a small heap of crispy onions on top.

A hot ham and Swiss cheese sandwich got a boost from a soft and flavorful pretzel roll. But the burger, oh my, the Big Boy burger. Although I'd never think Kilawat might have a contender for the city's best burger, this rich and sumptuous cheeseburger just may appear in an upcoming Milwaukee Challenge. A broiled whitefish BLT was equally good.

Desserts were even more elegant, but equally familiar and fun. There was a green apple sorbet and fun and delicious cheesecake lollipops that have, frankly, just the right amount of cheesecake. That is, two bites. Heavenly but just enough to leave you wanting more ... as it should be.

Even without alcohol, the food at Kilawat just might get you so tipsy that you'll have to be careful navigating your way down the stripey-carpeted steps.