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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Friday, Oct. 24, 2014

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In Dining

"(We are) trying to get your hazy hinder as close to nirvana as we can at 11:46 on a Sunday morning," says owner Scott Johnson. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska)

In Dining

Split 50/50 between traditional egg-centric breakfast items and brunch sandwiches, the new menu poses some difficult decisions in its 14 offerings. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska)

In Dining

Since opening in 2002, Palomino has been the place the punk rock cowboy goes to drown his sorrows and fill his belly. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska)

In Dining

Head chef Tim Krause created a Sunday morning savior for the Bay View neighborhood. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska)

Palomino's hangover brunch returns with a bang


Since opening in 2002, Palomino has been the place the punk rock cowboy goes to drown his sorrows and fill his belly.

Taking cues from the success of their first two establishments, Fuel in Riverwest and Comet Café on the East Side, Scott Johnson and Leslie Montemurro modeled their Bay View restaurant's menu around Southern-fried cooking with a modern, vegan-friendly twist.

Saddled up at the corner of Superior Street and Russell Avenue, Palomino has maintained popularity as a PBR-slinging saloon for the last six years. The food, however, hasn't been as consistent. Johnson admits that the kitchen went through a bit of an "off period" when the food and service didn't measure up to customer expectations.

Recipes changed, signature items morphed or disappeared completely and the brunch menu was so inconsistent that most customers gave up on it.

"The story of the brunch being on, then off, and then on again is in the nature of chefs that we had there," says Johnson. "Some tried but just couldn't pull it off and the food wasn't great. No one came in for brunch, with good reason, so we shelved it."

Fortunately, Johnson and Montemurro made some staff changes, a move that not only revived Palomino's brunch permanently, but also made it a hell of a lot better than it ever was in the past.

"These days we have a pretty fantastic staff," Johnson says. "We have a great GM in Tim Farley, a Katrina refugee, and Tim Krause, who is at the helm in the kitchen."

Krause's been a part of the Palomino family for a year and a half and trained under Johnson's business partner and Comet's executive chef, Adam Lucks.

"As you know, Comet puts out a great product and also has a great staff in the kitchen. Adam really knows how to train his guys and gives them a lot of freedom to get creative and push boundaries with 'traditional, American-style diner food' over there, and Tim came from that school. He knows fine dining and he knows the 'vernacular' cooking that Palomino specializes in and he mixes in his own influences."

When Krause wanted to tackle the elusive Palomino brunch, Johnson gave him the green light to create the ultimate "hangover brunch."

Split 50/50 between traditional egg-centric breakfast items and brunch sandwiches, the new menu poses some difficult decisions in its 14 offerings. As is customary at Palomino, over half of the items are available in vegan form by substituting a tofu scramble for the eggs.

On the entrée side there are eggs any way you want them, served with heaping piles of hash browns and toast, homemade biscuits and gravy (available vegan) and stuffed French toast. Portions are huge, although nothing -- even the steak lemmy, a homemade biscuit topped with two eggs, grilled steak and cheese -- is more than $9.

The hangover brunch sandwiches include the egg-wich (or tofu-wich), the brunch burger, the famous Velvet Elvis and the BLT or TLT, made with breaded tempeh. Again, nothing is priced over $8 and each comes with a choice of fries, tots, hushpuppies or poppers.

Basically, Krause has created a Sunday morning savior for the Bay View neighborhood.

"It's just a good, simple, stuffed-belly hangover brunch," says Johnson. "Strong coffee, a beer-mosa and eggs smothered in hash browns, cheese and gravy. "(We are) trying to get your hazy hinder as close to nirvana as we can at 11:46 on a Sunday morning."


Talkbacks

ekgr22 | March 10, 2008 at 4:46 p.m. (report)

This past week I read the review for the brunch and was looking forward to a good meal. Unfortunately that was not the case. I ordered the biscuits and gravy and my guest ordered the pancake stuffed with two eggs and bacon. It took 45 minutes for the meal to arrive and when our meal came we were very disappointed with the quality of food. My biscuits and gravy had only a touch of flavoring and were very watery. The pancake had nothing wrong with it but was very thin, more like a crape. Overall I would not receommed what we ordered but I would recommend the excellent service that we had!!!

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Palominobar | March 10, 2008 at 4:36 p.m. (report)

Thought this would be a good place to announce that on March 11th, Palomino will no longer allow smoking in the dining room during food service. You can still smoke at the bar. Thanks.

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Observer | March 9, 2008 at 9:39 p.m. (report)

Geez, I never had problems with the food; it was always in getting it. Palomino got my vote for the most horrible service in town (sometimes). The food would draw me back in and every now and then, a server would realize their job was to serve and that was enough to sucker me back. Dammit, now I'll have to try it again; hope they still have the habaero sauce.

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college_dave | March 7, 2008 at 3:57 p.m. (report)

I think the food there has always been awesome. The service too. I'm glad to hear the brunch is back and will be back soon for it. As for the smoke, well - I think its part of the charm to be honest. One can always wait until the weather changes and eat outside if it weighs that much on the decision whether or not to go. Nice article.

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LANNROMO | March 7, 2008 at 12:39 p.m. (report)

This sounds great Palomino, but I just bear the smokey atmosphere... and I know that I am not alone with these thoughts. So many people love the bar but dont go because we can't bare the smoke. PLEASE consider leading the way to smoke free establishment.

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