By Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host Published Nov 12, 2014 at 9:09 AM

It was a hot summer day when Rob Heotis stood near the empty lot at the corner of Muskego Ave. and Arrow St. The plot of land, which had been leveled weeks before, was now covered in fluffy dirt which had been recently tilled in preparation for planting.

"A man came up to me off the street," he says. "And he looked at the lot, and then at me. He asked me if he could walk on the dirt."

Heotis nodded. "Of course you can."

The man walked over the soil -- carefully, deliberately. He raised his head and smiled.

"I haven’t walked on dirt like that in at least ten years," he said.

The moment still resonates for Heotis, who played a key role in moving things forward for Pete’s Community Farm, a new urban farming initiative on Milwaukee’s south side.

"It gave me chills," he says. "It still gives me chills."

And Heotis says he got chills over and over again as he watched neighborhood children frequent the lot all summer long to pick fruit and vegetables and experience a momentary connection with the natural world.

The plan for Pete’s Community Farm was hatched in February, when Teddy and Martha Tsidiris of Pete’s Fruit Market floated the idea of using some of their family owned property to grow food. Properties considered included a lot near the market parking lot, another lot next to the store, and a third lot at the intersection of Muskego Ave. and Arrow.

"We’re in the grocery store business, so that’s our specialty. But, we started thinking, wouldn’t it be great to grow some vegetables there?" says Heotis.

So, the owners began reaching out to members of the community. They started with a few customers they knew from working on other community initiatives: Ryan Schone of UW-Extension and Stephanie Calloway of CORE/El Centro.  Together, they began to brainstorm ways to unite community in the production of good, wholesome, affordable food in a space that could also offer sanctuary from the bleak urban landscape.

"A truly unique partnership was formed," Schone notes. "It brings together Pete’s, a private, for-profit entity along with members of the non-profit sector – forming an organization that pulls together both financial and social capital, along with expertise in a variety of areas."

Calloway agrees, noting that one of the strengths of the project is its neighborhood focus.

"CORE/El Centro has brought a strong focus on community development and engagement, ensuring that neighbors were engaged and informed from the beginning of the project and continuing to build trust within the area."

As neighborhood canvassing began, it became increasingly evident that Pete’s Fruit Market had already created an indelible mark on the members of the south side community.

"There was initially some skepticism as we talked with members of the community," Schone notes. "But once we identified that we were working with Pete’s, there was a very positive response."

It's a philosophy of care and concern upon which market owner Pete Tsidiris founded his business. And he has worked toward improving the conditions for neighborhood residents since staring the Milwaukee market in 1992.

"We’re a staple in the neighborhood," says Heotis. "Pete is wonderful. He takes care of everyone and there’s no one who comes into our store who leaves hungry, regardless of their income level.  This project is just an extension of that care. And once we caught a glimpse of how much it was going to help the neighborhood, we were all for it."

Feedback moved the group to lay out a holistic plan which would eventually include all of the available lots.  The largest piece of land, about 8,000 square feet of space, was deemed an ideal location for the community farm. One of the smaller lots seemed to possess the potential to be used as a composting site. And the lot across the street from the market was chosen for the location of a year-round greenhouse with classroom space that can be used to provide education about growing foods and promoting healthful eating.

"We recognize the community health is about more than simply having access to fresh fruits and vegetables," says Calloway. "It’s also about connection, storytelling, food traditions and farm fresh eggs! This project is a big step toward building a healthy southside Milwaukee community."

The group determined that the farm would be first on the list of items to develop. Primary funding was put forth by Pete’s Fruit Market, with additional money secured through a Community Improvement Project (CIP) grant from the City of Milwaukee to facilitate the establishment of a chicken coop.

By late spring, the lot was leveled and several dump trucks filled with compost and topsoil were brought in and worked into the soil. By late May, initial plantings – including about 25 varieties of produce, along with plum, pear and cherry trees from Minor’s Garden Center. A fence was also built around the lot with supplies donated in part by Bliffert Lumber. 

"We chose crops that were of particular interest to populations on the south side: peppers, cilantro, ground cherries, tomatoes, lettuce, kale and a variety of herbs," Schone explains. "We also planted some flowers, with the idea of creating a peaceful, tranquil oasis amid the hustle and bustle of the area."

Cesar Cerna, a farmer who works land in Cascade, WI but also lives in the neighborhood, expressed an interest in the project and was brought on to oversee farming operations in collaboration with Dulay Trujillo, who lives a block or two from the farm.

In late June, Mayor Barrett and Alderman Perez attended a ribbon cutting ceremony for the garden, which subsequently began educational programming along with weekly volunteer and community market nights.

"Our biggest participants were the kids, who were already hanging out in the neighborhood," says Schone. "They’d help to water plants and pick vegetables. We combined that with educational programming, led by a Vista volunteer."

Calloway says she’s pleased with the partnership and is excited to move forward with future planning.

"It has been incredible to see the transformation that lot has undergone from May to October," she says. "It is amazing what a dedicated group of hard working, passionate people can accomplish!"

Future goals for the farm include the addition of a beehive for pollination and honey. There are also plans for the creation of a mural, which will be painted on canvas and mounted on an existing shed on the property, making it visible from Muskego Ave.

The last portion of funds will be used to build a pavilion that will provide a shaded area for activities. The goal will be to offer weekly educational activities and volunteer time for kids and neighbors.

"We worked with UWM on a rendering for the greenhouse space," Schone tells me. "And we are now looking for potential funders with the hope of beginning construction next season. In phases, we’ll reach out to additional community organizations and leadership to increase involvement in the garden.   We hope to create a replicable model that can be used by other supermarkets in the city."

And while the plans may seem overly ambitious to some, Heotis says there’s little doubt in his mind that the project will move forward.

"It’s been inspiring," he says. "As we started building – and as more and more people got involved – you could see the impact we were having, even early on. There were sparkles in eyes and smiles on faces. And when you see that, you have to keep pushing and moving forward. For me, that’s what’s kept my drive going.  And that’s what’s going to make it sustainable."

Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host

Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. 

When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.