Above and beyond. That's a phrase that, sadly, one rarely hears anymore when discussing restaurants and, especially, service. But on OnMilwaukee.com's first visit to Shiraz, which set up shop recently in the former Jake's at 6030 W. North Ave., above and beyond was what we received.

Not much has changed inside, it seems, since Jake's left, although Shiraz, a "Casual Fine Dining" establishment serving Persian food, has added a few touches, like little Persian carpets and exotic art. (But why on earth did we have to listen to Billy Joel, Olivia Newton-John and Phil Collins while dipping warm pita into hummus?! Is there no Persian music?)

We were greeted with a smile, seated quickly and efficiently and offered a choice of a table or a cozier booth. While perusing the large menu, we were presented with a complimentary plate arrayed with feta cheese, sliced radish, onions and parley and some soft, warm pita.

We were also offered free appetizers: dolmeh (stuffed grape leaves) and hummus. We also decided to try a plate of borani ($4.75), sautéed spinach with garlic and onions in yogurt. When our server noticed that it wasn't to our taste she offered to replace it with another appetizer or to give us something else to take home. How often has that happened to you?

In fact, despite the fact that our server was running at top speed and appeared to be the only server working, her enthusiasm and her smile never waned.

For entrees we ordered a lamb kabob ($16.95) and a shrimp kabob ($16.25).

Each came with a cup of soup: either a vegetarian lentil soup that was hearty and tasty but had a suspiciously beefy tang, or a lighter, but no less satisfying, chicken lemon rice soup.

The seven grilled, medium-sized shrimp were pleasingly al dente and the lamb was tender and perfect. Each came with a side of basmati rice and a selection of grilled vegetables: green peppers, tomato halves and onions.

The extensive menu also includes a variety of beef, chicken, lamb, seafood and vegetarian entrees, including stews, spinach pie, falafel, curries and moussaka.

From the wine list -- which boasts six Shiraz selections, plus eight other reds, eight whites, two blush choices and an Asti sparkling wine (prices ranged from $4.50-$9 a glass) -- we ordered a glass of the house Cabernet Sauvignon, from Estrella Winery ($4), which was full-bodied and pleasantly fruity. We also had a cup of dark, slightly spicy Persian tea.

Shiraz has definitely stepped off on the right foot, taking a customer-friendly and accommodating attitude and it's as refreshing as a glass of rosewater lemonade (also available at Shiraz!).

Shiraz, named for a town in Iran and owned by the same family as Sahar in downtown Milwaukee, is open for lunch and dinner. Take out is available and there is a bar attached to the restaurant. (414) 777-0270.