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In Dining Reviews

The Dubliner is contemporary and comfortable without being pretentious. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Dining Reviews

Food here is a step above bar food with a nice selection of appetizers, sandwiches, pub classic influenced entrees, salads, and weekend breakfasts. On a dinner (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

In Dining Reviews

The Dubliner is located at 124 W. National Ave., in the former Switch location. (PHOTO: Whitney Teska )

The Dubliner quashes skepticism


When long-time bar owner of Steny's, Jerry Stenstrup, decided to open The Dubliner, an Irish-themed gastropub on National Avenue, I was somewhat skeptical.

First, the name caused some confusion in the community, wondering if this was the rebirth of Ann James' former establishment at 922 S. 2nd St. -- it's not -- and second, with so many failed Irish pubs in the Walker's Point area, was a gastropub (read, elevated ambience and high quality food) really going to make a go of it?

Two recent visits to The Dubliner, 124 W. National Ave., somewhat quelled my skepticism. In a clean-lined, lovely renovation of what was formerly Switch, The Dubliner is contemporary and comfortable without being pretentious. Service is friendly and informative, and the space houses a stone fireplace within and a lovely brick patio outside lined with ferns and other hanging plants.

Although I don't know that I'd call The Dubliner a gastropub, food here is a step above bar food with a nice selection of appetizers, sandwiches, pub classic influenced entrees, salads, and weekend breakfasts.

On a dinner visit, I sampled The Dubliner dip ($7), essentially a Reuben with the bread on the side, and the epitome of comfort food. Our bowl was steaming hot with gruyere cheese, small pieces of tender corned beef, Thousand Island dressing and sauerkraut and served with slivers of toasted Irish stout bread. A cup of country potato and leek soup ($7) was rich and creamy with pieces of carrots and red potatoes, and just enough flavor to keep it interesting.

Veal and portabella mushroom meatloaf ($14), flavorful and tender, was ladled with a thick, white onion gravy. A small serving of mashed potatoes and a heap of squash, carrots and zucchini came with the plate. Shepherd's pie ($10) was easily enough for two meals and was a hearty, comfort food-style dish served with piles of mashed potatoes across the top.

The only complaints with both dishes were they lacked seasoning -- something easily corrected with the table's salt and pepper shakers -- and that they were served at too hot of a temperature. When I took the shepherd's pie to go after our meal, it was still steaming in the takeaway container. All things considered, though, I'd choose being served too hot of a meal over cold or tepid food any day.

On weekends, The Dubliner serves Irish ($11) or American ($9) breakfasts. The Irish rendition offers the traditional spread of white and black pudding, bangers (Irish sausages), rashers (Irish bacon), two eggs over easy, grilled potatoes, mushrooms and roasted tomatoes; while the American version pairs the eggs with cherry wood bacon, bangers, potatoes and freckle bread.

Both versions hold their own, although on one visit, we had to ask for the tomatoes and mushrooms on one of the Irish plates, and we missed the absent baked beans usually served with this plate. The Dubliner's bloody Marys, however, were raveable, and with such a relaxing setting, this may make the short list for weekend brunch stops with an improvement in consistency.

Talkbacks

Wez | Aug. 3, 2010 at 3:41 p.m. (report)

Great food! Nice bartenders as well.

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zappa | Aug. 2, 2010 at 4:09 p.m. (report)

please tell me that i did not just read a complaint that the food was too hot.

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Nippersinker | Aug. 2, 2010 at 1:25 p.m. (report)

I've only been for drinks, but it's good to know the food is good. Having spent 10 days in Ireland not too long ago, I'm interseted in getting the full Irish breakfast sometime. Baked beans, by the way, are an English breakfast thing, not Irish.

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