OnMilwaukee.com's ongoing "Take the Milwaukee Challenge" series takes on a plethora of locally-made products, everything from custard and coffee to wine and water (Milwaukee vs. Waukesha).

But each time summer comes around, we like to put the various components of a backyard barbecue to the test. A few years ago we pitted Klement's against Usinger's in the grilled brat department. Then we tackled side snacks and compared El Rey chips and salsa to Manny's.

In this latest segment, we're going veggie. We've all had our share of Boca or Gardenburgers, and we wanted to see how they stacked up to the chef-prepared vegan barbecue burger found in the deli case this time of year at Whole Foods Market.

Molly Snyder Edler
Staff Writer
Pick: Whole Foods burger

I have probably eaten 1,000 veggie burgers in my life, and almost all of them came out of a box. When I saw the Boca burgers and Gardenburgers in this challenge, I was certain I was going to choose one of these old faithfuls, however, I was blown away by the flavor and taste of the Whole Foods' vegan barbeque burger.

Originally, I was skeptical, thinking it was going to be dry because it is a very thick, chunky patty. However, the burger was actually very moist and flavorful, and tasted especially delicious when smothered with condiments. This vegetarian burger is a great choice for grilling because of its heartiness.

In short, don't let the "healthy" appearance of this vegan burger scare you off -- it has visible quinoa and carrot bits -- because the taste, moisture and bulk make for a very satisfying sandwich. Just don't compare it to a meat burger because that's an apples-and-oranges comparison.

Julie Lawrence
Staff Writer
Pick: Whole Foods burger

After all these years, I think I have finally figured out the bulk of commercial veggie burgers' fatal flaw: they're trying to be something they'll never, ever be. It's not that I don't think Boca or Gardenburger taste good for what they are; it's that I think they could be so much better if they dropped the inferiority complex and quit trying to be a beef patty.

When it comes to the art of the classic hamburger, any beef burger lover will attest, poor imitation is not the sincerest form of flattery. (Note: those fake grill marks aren't scoring points with anybody.)

This is the number one reason why Whole Foods' chef prepared barbecue burger wins this challenge. It wasn't trying to be something it wasn't. To me, my preference was shaped less by preconceived notions of what a "burger" should be and more on, shall we say, interestingness. If you've had one brand of frozen soy patty, you've pretty much had them all. They're good, not great, but they get the job done in grilling season. But the ones Whole Foods prepared were thick, dense and packed with quinoa, wheat, vegetables and spice. In a word: satisfying, which is more than I can say for those slim little Boca burgers.

And honestly, that's one of my main criteria when eating dinner -- I don't want to be hungry when I'm done. And if I continue to grill the ones in the Whole Foods deli case ($1.49 each), I don't think it'll be a problem.

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8 comments about this article. Post a comment / write a review.

Recent Talkbacks ...

Posted by bg37 on Sept. 5, 2009 at 10:53 a.m. (report)

i just had one for lunch and it was very tasty. cept i paid 2.99 for mine! i also like dr praeger's tex mex burgers ( trader joe's)... you can see the veggies, i had peas rolling out of my burger.. anyone know any nutritional values on this one though?

Posted by CoolerKing on May 18, 2009 at 8:10 p.m. (report)

Julie, give me a clue. I looked through Whole Foods, even asked at the meat counter about those burgers. They looked at me like I was crazy.

Posted by OCMEX on May 9, 2009 at 12:07 p.m. (report)

This is'nt food it's what food eats. Blaaaak!

Posted by Aardvark on May 7, 2009 at 3:39 p.m. (report)

jthom - and your comment "Guy Fieri is a giant tool" was very original as well. Excuse me while I go fry up some vegan bacon...

Posted by burger lover on May 6, 2009 at 4:18 p.m. (report)

Morningstar Farms Spicy Black Bean Burger! I would admit that there is really a great pre-made burger. This is awesome with some good cheese, it is really a great product!