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Jacques Pepin is one of the main reasons the world loves French cuisine. |
 | By Kyle Cherek  Special to OnMilwaukee.com E-mail author | Author bio More articles by Kyle Cherek |
| Published Jan. 16, 2009 at 1:57 p.m. |
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If the words foie gras, pommes frites and bouillabaisse roll off the average American's tongue, it is in large part due to two chefs and personalities that have shaped the American culinary scene more than any other: Jacques Pepin and Julia Child.
Pepin and Child are unquestionably the Jagger and Richards of the American palate. They skillfully executed and championed the French style of cooking that shaped the second half of the gastronomic 20th century. As a result, French cuisine -- more than any other -- was the standard bearer for menus and culinary schools alike. Starting as "la grand cuisine," expanding into the nouvelle cuisine of the 1970s, we now have the bistro, its cousin the brasserie and their well-dressed fashionista aunt, haute cuisine, at the top of the heap.
As our country rounded the corner of Europe's second great war, leisure became lifestyle and a burgeoning middle class took hold, French cuisine captivated our palettes and our best talents. The French edict "faites simple" or "keep it simple" grabbed Americans' aesthetic sense and appetites, with a premium on ingredients executed simply. Chefs and critics alike have noted for decades, "French cuisine is the most elegant comfort food one can find."
This "Wisconsin Foodie" episode is full of exceptional meetings. The kind you tell people about years later. The kind people travel and invest in just to have.
We began with a private invitation-only lunch in the Bacchus skylight room as Master Chef Jacques Pepin was hosted by some 30 of Wisconsin's finest chefs. Pepin's recipe for veal roast with shitake mushrooms in a tarragon cream from his latest cookbook was prepared. The balance of the flavors was perfectly-poised, the hometown favorite Strauss veal tender, with the tarragon crème augmenting the dish more like a good perfume finishes off a perfect dress, and the shitakes acting as the punctuation for a well put remark.
Our own French cooking treasure and recent James Beard award-winner Adam Siegel expertly prepared the lunch. Also, I had one of those great insider foodie moments when I heard Pepin remark that the aspic at lunch was perfect. When I relayed this back to the sous-chef, he first broke into what could only be described as a massive smile, then turned his tightly closed eyes toward heaven and whispered "yes."
Exceptional lunch number two came at the coveted kitchen table at Bartolotta's Lake Park Bistro with namesake Joe Bartolotta. Siegel again cooked for us, which was amazing and then some.
But as a foodie, to be able to share a meal and have a wide-open conversation about the how, why and where Joe came from and what approach he takes to the art of the restaurant, was a true honor. Joe is perfect combination of convivial, warm and specific about his passions. To have given so much to the cuisine culture for our state, added so many opportunities for burgeoning and well-vetted foodies, all in tandem with a two-star Michelin-trained brother; he struck the perfect balance that day at lunch.
The history of Wisconsin's distinctive hold on French cuisine of course flows through Madame Kuony, her honorary kitchen in the Milwaukee Public Market and her many devoted students and restaurant guests. In that spirit, we would have been remiss to not begin the episode from what is now one of our state's best French resources, Lake Park Bistro.
Most often when we shoot, near the end of the day, I don't want to leave because I am enjoying it all too much -- the chefs, the farmers and the foodies. Being around people who do what they do simply because they love it -- and would not know what else they would do if given the opportunity -- has is owns reward of a very poignant kind. After for this episode, I could stay French forever.
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6 comments about this article. Post a comment / write a review. |
Recent Talkbacks ...
Posted by t haus on Jan. 21, 2009 at 2:13 p.m. (report)
"Foodie." It's a term that somehow seems akin to ones such as "booger," or "Jesus-freak," or "groupie." None of these things in and of itself is a particularly bad thing (though I suppose it depends on the situation), but these labels feel somehow... unappreciative. That being said, the word does not necessarily bring to mind images of unforgettable cuisine, and/or other magnificent edibles. While the origin of the term to me is unbeknownst, I can only assume that people who fell into the category were so-dubbed by the cooks/chefs that the foodies so deeply admired and followed... I enjoy food of all kinds. I enjoy cooking it, learning about it, tasting it, savoring it. However. With the advent of things like The Food Network, Top Chef, Iron Chef, Hell's Kitchen, Rocco's Three Ring Circus and Pizza Parlor, etc., etc., Ad nauseum, Ad infinitum... the barrage of information on the subject and what feels like an endless contest to see who can know the most about what goes in our mouths has gotten to the point of the obnoxious, and so kind of defeats the purpose. Along with this new height of asinine behavior, we have this perfect word that is nearly as unbecoming--"foodie." And then--to be a self-proclaimed foodie? Whoa, Daddy! But consider this. Are foodies bad? No, and in fact, one might even argue that they are good for the economy, and good for American culture. As the pendulum swings, so do words and the ways in which they are used. "Geek" is another good, similar word. In many circles, it is now considered very cool to be a geek. Who'd a thunk it? It wasn't always the case. Kyle's show is probably generally good for Wisconsin. There's nothing wrong with being a food enthusiast. I do hope he will choose to scale his approach accordingly, though, and truly take into account that other food enthusiasts are perhaps more interested in the actual experiences and what they offer than who is rubbing shoulders with whom. Go back to basics. Make the term endearing. Make "foodies" lovable, rather than sycophantic, if at all possible. Remember that this is why America fell in love with Jacques Pepin in the first place. "Faites simple." One more thing: Whatever you call yourself--foodie, home-cook, gourmet--whatever. Hopefully, you'll know and keep in mind that most real cooks work their butts off in hot, unglamorous conditions for long hours, sans spotlight, sans big paycheck, and sans glory. They sometimes even undergo injuries to bring you things like filet mignon or uovo raviolo, time and time again. Not because they love you, but because they are often a bit crazy. Nevertheless, go out when you can, and show these brave souls that you love what they do by supporting the wonderful local restaurants where they work. This is the best way to give "foodies" a good name.
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Posted by repoman on Jan. 19, 2009 at 9:57 a.m. (report)
The term "foodie" sucks and even though I am into food, cooking, etc. I cringe when someone calls me that. It kind of seems to me like an elitist term used to describe people who are into food for the status is represents. Like the people who will go to the newest, exciting restaurnant and then order the most bland thing on the menu like a chicken breast just to say "I ate at so-and-so."
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Posted by jodybdesigns on Jan. 18, 2009 at 9:29 p.m. (report)
Milwaukee certainly has come a long way from its simple culinary stereotype of cheese and sausage offerings. What an honor to host such legendary chef greats. Keep up the great work Kyle! Milwaukee/Wisconsin is a ethnic melting pot of flavors! Let us eat, drink and be merry!
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Posted by kristin on Jan. 18, 2009 at 9:38 a.m. (report)
He seems to talk more about himself being a "foodie", rather than the actual food.
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Posted by lavachequilit on Jan. 17, 2009 at 5:28 p.m. (report)
Monsieur Foodie should learn to spell 'palate' and to make agreement between French nouns and adjectives...sorry, I'm a brutal editor. I can't help it.
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