By Gregg Hoffmann Special to OnMilwaukee.com Published Oct 01, 2004 at 5:02 AM

{image1}From a small butterfly that lives only two weeks to the still-endangered whooping cranes and at least a couple packs of wolves, they are all at the Necedah National Wildlife Refuge.

Located north of Highway 21 and east of Highway 80 in Juneau County, the refuge encompasses 39,600 acres. The U.S. and Fish Wildlife Services manages the combination of wetlands, woodlands, oak savannahs, sedge meadows and grasslands.

Necedah was established in 1939. It is part of the National Wildlife Refuge System, which includes more than 500 refuges, wildernesses and thousands of waterfowl production areas.

There is no general admission fee or special hiking fee. You do need licenses to fish and hunt in the refuge.

The stars of the refuge are the Karners, whoopers and wolves. The Karners flock to the refuge like no other place in the world. The larval stage of the Karner feeds only on a plant called lupine.

Lupine loves sun, sand and fire -- three things that the savannas of Necedah provide in quantity. The adult Karner, which lives only a couple weeks, lays its eggs near the base of the lupine. The larval then are "born" to their first meal readily available. Adult butterflies emerge in late May and early June, and then again in late July and early August.

The Karner blue is an endangered species. So, you have to remain on trails when you take the .8-mile lupine loop trail. Killing or molesting the butterfly or its habitat can bring fines up to $10,000 and/or a year in jail.

Whooping cranes make Necedah part of their summers. Also an endangered species, the whooper is making a comeback, largely due to the efforts of the International Crane Foundation, also located in Wisconsin, and those at Necedah.

You can spot a whooper right away since they are snow white. This writer saw some on the Observation Tower Trail and Pair Ponds Trail in September.

Necedah also has a whooper festival in September. Many of the activities are based in the town itself, which sits four miles east of the refuge.

Wolves have been detected in Necedah for several years. A female gray wolf was killed on the opening day of deer season in 1999. A $4,000 reward is still being offered for information on the killing.

Despite that setback, and the general fear that many people have of wolves, the animals have done well in the refuge and also are seen in areas outside of its boundaries.

No incidents have been reported with wolves in the Necedah area. This past summer, wolf packs killed seven dogs in four separate attacks in Ashland County, but the dogs were being trained to help hunt bears so also might have been somewhat aggressive. Visitors to Necedah, or anywhere with wolves, should exercise some caution, according to wildlife experts.

So much emphasis is put on the three stars of the refuge that it is almost too easy to ignore all the other species. This writer saw two golden eagles, within a half mile of each other, on the perimeter of a woodland area. Bald eagles also are rather common.

Sandhill cranes are so plentiful that you almost don't notice them after a while. They can be seen primarily in the wetlands area or in open fields. They arrive in late March and leave in October and November for warmer climates.

Three species of swans are somewhat common in the refuge in spring and fall. Tundra swans don't nest in Necedah, but do stop there during their migration. They are the most common swan in the refuge. Mute swans are a non-native species, but also stop in the refuge.

Trumpeters were non-existent in Wisconsin in the early 1900s. In 1994, 25 cygnets were reared on the refuge in hopes of establishing a breeding population. Eggs were removed from nests in Alaska and transported to the Milwaukee County Zoo where they were hatched in incubators.

Numerous waterfowl are in the wetland areas. Mallards, wood ducks, blue-winged teals and black ducks are common. Canadian geese stop on their migration routes. Hawks and owls also are plentiful. Songbirds of all kinds populate the refuge.

For safety reasons, no other activities are allowed in the refuge during the nine-day deer-hunting season in mid-November.

Northern pike and bullheads are the main fish species found in refuge waters. Crappies, yellow perch, largemouth bass, bluegills and sunfish can also be found, but are less numerous.

Fishing is allowed in Sprague and Goose pools, the Suk Cerney Flowage, Harvey's Ponds and other waters in the refuge. Because of waterfowl seasons, the dates of fishing vary. So, if you want to wet a line, you should check with the Headquarters office.

Much of the national refuge is surrounded by state wildlife grounds. This makes the general area a paradise for any avid outdoorsman.

The Wisconsin River is not far to the east of the refuge, with Castle Rock State Park and other recreational areas nearby.

Necedah itself is a charming town, with some interesting attractions. The Queen of the Holy Rosary Mediatrix of Peace Shrine is on its outskirts.

Stop at the Little Crane restaurant for a hearty breakfast. You might even order what the owner calls his "ugly breakfast," which combines baked beans with hash browns and all kinds of other goodies.

The Roadhouse, to the east of town on Highway 21, provides a real atmosphere that fits its name. You can enjoy a beer next to an elderly couple on one side and a Harley biker on the other. The place has a great fish fry on Fridays.

So, you need not be only a tree hugger to enjoy the general Necedah area. But, if you do love nature, the Necedah National Wildlife Refuge compares nicely to just about any other place in the state, or for that matter the country.

Gregg Hoffmann Special to OnMilwaukee.com
Gregg Hoffmann is a veteran journalist, author and publisher of Midwest Diamond Report and Old School Collectibles Web sites. Hoffmann, a retired senior lecturer in journalism at UWM, writes The State Sports Buzz and Beyond Milwaukee on a monthly basis for OMC.