By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Nov 14, 2000 at 8:26 AM

Zaffiro's Pizza
1724 N. Farwell Ave.
414-289-8776
Open daily at 5 p.m.


The decor

Zaffiro's is 1950s corner tap to the Max. The small restaurant is tucked behind one of the most vibrant bars in the city, where folks jockey for a seat to wait for the next open table. Indeed, Zaffiro's is a microcosm of society, and you can expect the unexpected when you set foot inside. Sports stars, politicians, captains of industry, movers and shakers and even a critic or two rubs elbows with mainstream and not so mainstream Milwaukee, all in quest of attacking a pizza or two.

The food

No doubt about it these people know what they are doing. Handcrafted pizza done the old fashioned way with a variety of toppings and a sauce that grandma made is the recipe for success. The EBF describes the "Everything But Fish." Toss in the old kitchen sink with this one. Cheese, sausage, pepperoni, mushrooms, onions, peppers and tomatoes are piled high and although less is often more when it comes to making pizza, this one remains crisp and is the most popular on the menu. While the pizza is in the oven, pass the time working your way through Zaffiro's monster salad, which is the "EBF" in a bowl full of lettuce smothered with the house vinaigrette. It is large enough to share with three of your best friends. Other menu choices include a few pastas with red sauce, Italian beef, and a very good hamburger. Quite simply, Zaffiro's is a Milwaukee all star.

The crowd

It's a slice of Milwaukee and a slice of life at the little pizza joint that could. Little has changed since 1956 when the Zaffiro family started tossing what many consider to be the very best pizza in Milwaukee, and the SRO crowds attest to the city's love affair for the thin crust beauties that come flying out of the oven.

The prices

Moderate.

The bar

Wash down dinner with a carafe of the house wine, a quality Chianti served in a small, unmarked bottle.