By Amy L. Carlson   Published Jul 25, 2005 at 5:40 AM Photography: Eron Laber

{image1} Diane Benjamin has created a culinary chameleon of sorts. Nestled into a quiet little nook Downtown, and now named Dish Bistro, her ever-evolving, ever-improving and always welcoming creation at 801 N. Cass St. bears remnants of prior names, like Benjamin's Too (the engraved sign on the outside of the building), and Lakeside Inn Café (the backs of the colorful menus), but carries into the future with little décor updates and constant rotation of wine and food specials certain to please even the pickiest of diners.

Dish Bistro is the type of restaurant that accommodates a formal business luncheon just as adeptly as it caters to a romantic evening dinner, with menu options ranging from simple soups and sandwiches to elaborate seafood and pasta dishes.

Regulars will steer you there anytime after 8 a.m. for Benjamin's famous omelets (10 options all under $7), but my personal interest was peaked when I saw hoppel poppel ($5.95) and super hoppel poppel ($6.95) on the menu; not to be confused with the German egg nog, this former peasant dish combines salami, potatoes and eggs, and is hard to find in breakfast establishments these days. Opting for the super version adds onions, mushrooms and cheese.

{image2}

Starters include out of the ordinary options such as shrimp delight (shrimp with brie, cream and spices, $7.95) and spinach blankets (phyllo dough stuffed with feta cheese and spinach, similar to mini spanakopitas, but served in a Pernod sauce, $6.95). Shrimp cocktail ($7.95) appeared with a spicy Oriental mustard in place of mundane cocktail sauce.

All appetizers were better than average, but deserve extra kudos for innovation. A rotating supply of fresh warm breads offered with meals surprised and delighted us. Once we had a fresh rosemary loaf, and on another visit, light airy rolls.

Salads at Dish Bistro are large and offer a variety of options for both vegetarians and meat lovers alike. We sampled the Oriental chicken salad ($7.50), a heaping plate of fresh mixed greens and vegetables, with perfectly moist chicken and a healthy portion of rice.

Soup and half sandwich combinations (prices vary around the $7 range) included a three-cheese havarti, swiss and cheddar sandwich, and a creamy bleu cheese and tomato soup, and a basic grilled ham and cheese sandwich with the bistro's signature seafood soup, a mixture of veggies and clams in fish stock, reminiscent of a cioppino.

{image3}

On a dinner visit, we opted for the special glazed lamb shank ($21.95), which was tender and delicious, and the prawns ($22.95), which came lightly grilled in a lemon sauce, over mixed greens and rice, and were served with two delicious, healthily portioned crab cakes. Our dinner waitress was the owner herself -- a wonderful little treat -- and something rarely found in restaurants these days.

Dish has a nice, albeit small, wine list, and we sampled a Robert Mondavi Pinot Grigio that is newer to the market and was a delicious complement to our meal. I was particularly impressed when she mentioned the wine was perhaps a little too cold, and we should allow the bottle to come to room temperature to truly enjoy the flavors. Many restaurants unwittingly serve white wine at an icy cold temperature, which inhibits the true flavors of the vine.

Dish Bistro also offers an extensive dessert menu, including such niceties as an authentic tasting bourbon pecan pie, a light and delicious tiramisu, and a to-die-for chocolate raspberry mousse. This is the perfect restaurant to visit to break up a hectic workday, or to unwind with a relaxing and delicious meal in the evening. There's something peaceful about Dish Bistro; its warmth and welcome makes you feel as though you've just come home.

Dish Bistro is open Monday through Sunday 8 a.m. to 10 p.m. No smoking. Vegetarian selections available. For more information on Dish Bistro, call (414) 276-1577. Their Web site is milwaukeedishbistro.com.