Girolama "Mimma" Megna is no secret in Milwaukee. The East Side restaurant that bears her name, 1307 E. Brady St., is nearly legendary, as is its owner. Although her nearby Vucciria and Coco Bella ventures didn't have the same staying power, most everyone agrees Mimma's Cafe is a Milwaukee dining landmark.

Now, Megna celebrates the 20th anniversary of that establishment with a new menu that will appear in May.

We thought it was high time to ask her about herself and her restaurant. 

OMC: What is your training and experience in the restaurant industry?

Mimma Megna: I am a self-taught cook, but I have many relatives back home in Italy who are in the restaurant business. In 1963, I moved to Milwaukee from Porticello (in Sicily) and started running Tina's Grocery Store in 1968. But, because of the times, the Brady Street area was a difficult place in which to have a business. There were riots, curfews; the streets were dangerous. In 1972, we moved to Glendale where we opened another grocery on Green Bay and Green Tree Roads.

After we stopped working in the grocery industry, I went to Northshore Racquet Club where I worked as a cook, and later I began my own catering company, which I ran for 21 years.

OMC: How did Mimma's begin?

MM: In May of 1985, I returned to Milwaukee. (Note: After a short stint in the gift shop business, Megna spent some time working in restaurants in California.) My parents had passed away, and left a small sun of money to each of their six children. I traveled to Italy where I received $15,000, and I knew right away that I wanted to do something on my own, with my own money. Banks were not really eager to help restaurants during those times.

I sat down with the newspaper and tried to find a place that fit within my budget of $15,000. Finally, I did -- a former catering, deli and pizzeria space in Cedarburg. (Note: After a dispute with the village over outdoor seating, Megna was able to locate a small bakery on Brady Street.)

OMC: What are your favorite cookbooks?

MM: Anything Italian. I have a huge collection of Italian cookbooks, and I have actually contributed several times to the magazine La Cucina Italiana for their "Christmas in Sicily," "Italian Cooking and Living," and "Meats, Vegetables, and Desserts" editions.

OMC: Do you have a trademark?

MM: For 19 years, I have had glads (gladiolas) 365 days a year. One time I had 10 dozen in one vase, if you can imagine that.

OMC: What is the kitchen utensil you can't live without?

MM: A knife. Without a knife, you can't get anything done. With one, you can do just about anything.

OMC: What types of food so you like to cook and eat besides Italian?

MM: Chinese and Mexican food, and I like real, fresh Polish sausage. I also like to experiment with Italian recipes, making meatballs with fresh tuna, for example, or stuffing riceballs with shrimp or prosciutto. I also like to experiment with artichokes, and when I am experimenting, I share these new items with our diners to get their input. That's very important.

I do try to try everyone else, as well, when I can get out -- I'm here most of the time. I like to eat other types of food, but Italian is the one type of food I never get sick of.

OMC: What do you want your customers to be thinking about when they leave Mimma's?

MM: I want people to walk away happy, feeling that they've just had a wonderful experience. I often have people come in who remember the last meal they had here. Since, they've traveled to Italy and all over the world, and now they've come back to Mimma's looking for our food.