By Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host Published Nov 05, 2014 at 11:02 AM

Two thousand dollars a pound seems like a lot of moolah for a mushroom. And maybe it is. But, in the case of the white truffle (which, for the record, isn't a mushroom, because it grows underground), it’s a price many are willing to pay.

White truffles – most of which come from Piemonte in northwest Italy -- are rare and don't travel well. Add to that a season that persists for just a couple of months each year, and you quickly begin understand why the truffle might just be the perfect luxury commodity.

Whether they are "worth the money" has a lot to do with how you like to spend your money. It may also have everything to do with the experiences you’ve had with truffles.

I am not employed by the truffle czar. Nor paid by the truffle powers that be. And I’m not trying to tell you where and how to spend your cash. But, if asked here’s what I’d say on the matter: If you love food --- and if your only experience with truffles has been with truffle oil, which is the case for many -- it’s worthwhile to seek out the "real thing."

For one, there is something very special about the odor of a fresh truffle.  For me, it’s a rich combination of freshly tilled earth, autumn rain (complete with worms) and the lingering, bittersweet notes of true love lost.

I’ve heard others compare it to a musty locker room. And a good friend of mine calls the odor "confusing."

Bobby Tanzilo once wrote:  "the musky, earthy sent of this underground jewel, extracted from the Earth by solitary (and secretive) truffle hunters and their trusty dogs, adds depth, flavor and its heavenly perfume to a dish."

Chefs like Andrew Miller of Salotto Zarletti agree.

"Tasting white truffles for the first time will leave you with the sensory memory of a lifetime," he says. "This intoxicatingly aromatic truffle tastes slightly musky, nutty, and floral to me and I hope more people get to experience it!"

In order to facilitate the latter, Miller will be hosting a five-course white truffle dinner at Salotto Zarletti,  1515 W Mequon Rd.,  on Wednesday, Nov. 12.

"For this dinner we are featuring cuisine inspired by northern Italy and also making it a bit more a refined experience," he says. "We are using techniques/ingredients we wouldn't normally use at Salotto."

The menu includes an amuse of pizza bianchini with white truffles and Prosciutto di Parma Gran Riserva and a first course of warm Robiola Due Latti cheese, local Honeycrisp apples and white truffle jam. The Insalate will be a soft boiled egg with chicory, braised celery and white truffle shavings, followed by a pasta course of crescenza filled ravioleto with goat’s milk brown butter, sage and white truffles.

Miller says he’s most excited about the roasted squab with foie gras and white truffle "Mortadella, winter spinach and Barolo.

"The flavor combination really excites me and the process of figuring out the ‘mortadella’ was a little trickier than I had originally thought," he says. "It combines some French techniques with a distinctly Italian salumi and the result turned out beautifully."

A dessert of smoked chocolate semifredoo with strawberry and white truffle shortbread crumble will finish out the meal.

"I have done truffle dinners in the past but this will be my first as an executive chef. Usually at dinners like these, truffles aren't doled out abundantly," Miller confesses.

But, he says this dinner will be different.

"If I personally was going to an event like this I would want to have a true truffle experience, not just different courses with a few truffles shaved over each one," he explains. "So, I assure you plates will be lavishly garnished with truffles. For truffle enthusiasts or truffle newbies this will be a very extravagant, relaxed, and interactive dinner."

Wine lovers can also get excited. Italian pairings, chosen by Brian and Jeff Eastman of L’eft Bank Wine include the pleasantly floral 2010 Marchesi di Gresy Dolcetto, the 2009 San Matteo Barbaresco from Piedmont and a 2009 Luigi Einaudi Barolo "Terlo."

Ready to splurge?  The dinner is $175 per person, plus tax and gratuity. But, consider that a deal.  White truffle dinners -- even here in Milwaukee --  can run $300 or more.

Plus, in the words of Chef Miller himself: "If you've never tasted white truffle before...what are you waiting for?!"

Salotto Zarletti’s White Truffle Dinner takes place on Wednesday, Nov. 12. The evening begins with a cocktail reception at 6 p.m., followed by dinner at 7 p.m. Tickets are $175.00 per person, plus tax and gratuity. Reservations can be made by calling the restaurant at (262) 241-5990.

Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host

Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. 

When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.