It's time for Dining Month, presented by Deer District and its spooky Halloween-themed alter ego, Fear District. Throughout the month of October, we'll be serving up fun and fascinating content about all things food. The signature dish, however, is our 2019 Best of Dining poll, who's winners we will dish out all month long. Get hungry, Milwaukee!
In this series, we’re on the hunt for some of the area's best fish fries. You’ll find commentary, pro tips and ratings of the three staples of a classic Wisconsin fry: namely the fish, the potato pancakes, and the classic Wisconsin style brandy old fashioned. View all fish fry reviews here.
Company Brewing
735 E. Center St.
(414) 930-0909
companybrewing.com
These days it’s not unusual to find a brewery that offers a full menu of beer-friendly foods. But when Company Brewing opened in 2015, they were among less than a handful of brewpubs offering food, and one of the first to offer a menu that truly pushed the envelope.
While the menu has changed multiple times over the years, with chefs coming and going, Company still offers a menu that appeals to both diners looking for pub grub and those seeking out something a bit more interesting. They also serve a very good brunch on weekends.
On Fridays, Company offers a fish fry featuring crisp breaded perch, buttered rye toast, hand cut slaw, tartar sauce, applesauce and french fries or potato pancakes for $15.95.
The fish
The portion of perch was more than generous, featuring seven pieces of breaded fish. Although I prefer my perch with little more than a dusting of seasoned flour (largely because a thicker breading masks the flavor of the fish, the breadcrumb style breading was impeccably crisp, with a nice flavor and notable crunch. Pull back the breading and the fish was tender, flavorful and perfectly cooked. If you prefer a thicker breading on your lake fish, you might enjoy this preparation.
The potato
The accompanying housemade potato pancake did strike me as being slightly thick and heavy; but it was nicely seasoned with a good, potato forward flavor. The texture, although dense, was very nicely crisped on the exterior and tender in the center.
The old fashioned
The brandy old fashioned was among the best I’ve had. It was slightly sweet, but nicely balanced with a detectable bitters presence. Orange had been visibly muddled in the glass, and the drink was nicely garnished with a Luxardo cherry.
Company Brewing is open Tuesday through Thursday from 4 p.m. to midnight, Friiday from 4 p.m. to 2:30 a.m., Saturday from 10 a.m. to 2:30 a.m. and Sunday from 10 a.m. to 11 p.m.
Got suggestions for our next fish fry? Email lori@staff.onmilwaukee.com with your suggestions. Suggested fish fry menus should (ideally) include at least one lake fish option (walleye, perch), potato pancakes and a stellar old fashioned.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
