Beer tastings and pairings have become about as popular, if not more so, as wine tastings these days, and they almost always have some kind of theme. I occasionally attend the weekly Suds Club at The Bomb Shelter, where each week is focused on a different style of beer -- ales, porters, stouts, etc. -- and I know restaurants like La Merenda host them to coincide with new seasonal menu items.

But the beer tasting I attended last Sunday at Sugar Maple, 441 E. Lincoln Ave., was different. This one was just for women, and was hosted by Sugar Maple co-owner Adrienne Pierluissi.

Her guest was local author Lucy Saunders, who has written "The Best of American Food & Beer" and more recently, "Grilling with Beer." She also started Beercook.com, a detailed resource for anyone looking to cook with and pair craft beer.

Saunders chose six beers and used her knowledge of flavor complements and contrasts to create a two-hour sampling session that left us impressed and satiated.

She led with New Glarus' Raspberry Tart, which she served with Antigo raspberry Bellavitano cheese and encouraged the drink as good with a salad or appetizer course, rather than as the more traditional dessert beer.

The sweetness of the first sample made the second one come off as surprisingly sour. It was Rosie, the new oaky Belgian from Lakefront Brewery and, compared to the candy-like Tart, tasted like wood. But as I got over my initial reaction -- and mixed it with the vintage Gruyere and dried cherries -- it became quite pleasant and refreshingly different.

The highlight of the tasting, however, was Tyranena Brewing Co.'s Devil Made Me Do It Imperial Coffee Porter paired with dark chocolate fairy food from Franklin's Chocolates. It would be a bit much for a hot summer day, but during this long Wisconsin winter, its warming richness was welcome.

While we sampled, Saunders make sure we were gaining an education as well. She told us that the ideal serving / tasting temperature for beer is 45-50 degrees; any colder and you're not getting the full range of flavors. And when she poured our samples, she poured directly into the center of our glasses, letting it foam up to the rim. This, she said, is the best way to enjoy the beer's aroma.

The next installment of "Tasting Women" is Sunday, Feb 22 from 4 to 6 p.m. The featured guest is Karen Hamilton from Lagunitas Brewery in California. It costs $15. Call to register: (414) 481-2393.