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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Thursday, July 24, 2014

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In Milwaukee Buzz

Edward Townsend Mix's Old Main is the centerpiece of the "small town" on the VA grounds.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Old Main is a sprawling building.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Old Main has had roof issues since January 2011.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Henry Koch's Ward Theater is one of the city's greatest architectural assets.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Koch's chapel is a great example of the "shingle style."

In Milwaukee Buzz

The chapel has an imposing tower.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Also on the grounds is a "governors residence."

In Milwaukee Buzz

The recreation building has some vintage bowling alleys.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Visitors are welcome at the Wadsworth Library.

In Milwaukee Buzz

There is also this old cream city brick power plant in the complex.

In Milwaukee Buzz

The cream city brick hospital comprises a number of buildings.

In Milwaukee Buzz

Wrap-around porches allowed the hospital's patients to convalesce in the open air.

In Milwaukee Buzz

The buildings in the 19th century complex have stunning details, like this chimney on the hospital.

Urban spelunking: The National Soldiers Home Historic District


"Somebody told me that out near the stadium there's like an old Civil War town or something. Is that true?"

A friend of mine who is very knowledgeable about Milwaukee and has lived here nearly his entire life asked me that when I mentioned I was taking a tour of the park-like grounds recently.

It's amazing how close, and yet how unknown and misunderstood, the old Soldiers Home on the Veterans Administration grounds – which is also home to Wood National Cemetery – still is to many Milwaukeeans.

Since the 1860s, the Soldiers Home has offered services to area veterans – starting with, of course, Civil War veterans. Though it isn't the oldest building in the complex, the Gothic Revival-style Old Main, with its soaring tower and its hilltop setting, is the most recognizable. You can see it from the freeway, for years it took center stage out over the outfield walls at County Stadium and it's visible from Miller Park, too.

"It's really common and i'm really even guilty of it," says Megan Daniels, author of "Milwaukee's Early Architecture" and a member of Milwaukee Preservation Alliance, who strolled the grounds of the Soldiers Home recently, along with me, Dawn McCarthy, president of the Alliance, and Elizabeth Hummitzsch, who is working to spread the word about preservation efforts at the site.

"After the roof collapsed; that's when I first actually came out here to see it. You can see the tower from the freeway, and it's always like, 'what is that, what's going on over there? It looks really interesting.' But it's kind of lost out here."

Hummitzsch, who works for Mueller Communications, agrees.

"That is certainly part of the struggle and I know that's part of MPA's goal is to really let people know that this is here. You can come out here and walk around and take in these buildings."

The oldest section of the complex, where Old Main – designed by Milwaukee architect Edward Townsend Mix and constructed in 1869 – is located, is an incredible small-town-like collection of buildings that includes a hospital, a library, a barracks, Victorian homes that hosted chaplains, administrators and surgeons, a governor's residence, a social hall (with a bowling alley), a fire engine house and other structures. Most were constructed with cream city brick.

The MPA is currently focused on the stabilization of three structures:

Old Main – which was used for veteran housing through the 1970s and in more recent years had a Medical College of Wisconsin crash lab – and two buildings designed by German immigrant, Civil War veteran and landmark Milwaukee architect Henry C. Koch: the Ward Theater and the chapel.

Koch, who designed City Hall, Turner Hall, Gesu Church, The Pfister Hotel and other instantly recognizable Milwaukee buildings, contributed two stunning works to the complex.

The 1889 non-denominational chapel has an entirely wooden facade. Its 7,000 square feet could hold 600 worshippers and it is among the earliest such facility on federal land and likely the first in the state.

The white "shingle style" structure has a heavy, imposing tower, and a facade that is decorated with an astonishing array of wood details. It's been closed since the 1990s and it looks like it. Inside the chain link fence encircling the chapel, the exterior paint is peeling and for our own safety we're not even allowed inside, where, Hummitzsch says, there is water damage and leaking.

According to their website The Kubala Washatko Architects are working with The Soldiers Home Foundation to restore the building and reopen it "for veteran use and funerals, as well as VA and visiting chaplain use, historic displays, weddings and other ceremonies, and multi-denominational, patriotic, and educational community events."

"There will hopefully be some work going on there in the coming months," says Hummitzsch.

The whole site is listed on the National Register of Historic Places, but The Ward Theater, constructed in 1881, is listed individually on the register, too. It's easy to see why. Koch's Victorian Gothic style building has an ornate wooden porch wrapped around a cream city brick building with red brick decoration and lovely details.

One such detail, a portrait of Ulysses S. Grant executed in stained glass has been removed to safety while work takes place to stabilize the building in preparation for renovations.

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