A recent scouting visit to The Anchorage, 4700 N. Port Washington Rd., proved once again that in Milwaukee, not all hotel restaurants are created equal.

The Anchorage -- celebrating more than 30 years of serving -- is easily recognized thanks to its beaming red sign strikingly visible from I-43; and though the restaurant is housed within a Hilton Hotel, don't expect standard hotel restaurant fare here. The menu is heavy with seafood selections -- both for daily options and nightly specials, and the specials menu offers seasonal, sometimes hard to find items like soft shell crab and sand dabs (a type of small flounder) for $25 or less, including salad and choice of potato or rice.

The Anchorage is on the bank of the Milwaukee River, and on our visit, we actually had the opportunity to watch a fisherman trolling while we ate our seafood dinners.

White tablecloths are counteracted by large televisions, and the bar is busy with diners on the weekdays knocking back a few cold ones while eating fresh fish and watching the Brewers. Diners seated along the riverfront enjoy a quieter atmosphere, and the clientele on a bustling Wednesday evening seemed to be made up of more regulars than travelers.

Appetizers at The Anchorage also feature seafood in abundance. Shrimp cocktail, oysters on the half shell or Rockefeller, coconut shrimp and escargot all appear, for $9.95 or less.

Daily soups are red snapper or New England clam chowder for $3.50 a cup or $4.95 a bowl. Even the salads at The Anchorage are offered with smoked salmon or lump crabmeat.

But for those who are craving something from the land, steaks, chops and ribs make a hearty appearance as well, and all entrees come in at $27.95 or less including salad, rice or potato and vegetable. Some more interesting items like pepper steak ($14.95) and angry chicken ($15.95), the latter is a Cajun cream and mushroom rendition, also make an appearance.

More true to steak and seafood house form, Wednesday and Saturday nights feature prime rib of beef with au jus; 10 ounces for $19.95 or 16 ounces for $24.95.

Desserts are not made in-house but are still worth contemplation. On our visit we were offered the usual suspects: cheesecake with fresh berries, crème brulee, chocolate cake and carrot cake.