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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Wednesday, May 16, 2012

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In Dining

Chef Justin Johnson's work at Harwood Place is challenging expectations.

In Dining

Johnson's pan-seared grouper with fingerling potatoes, haricot verts and apple braised red cabbage.

Featured chef: Justin Johnson of Harwood Place


Yes, you read that headline correctly. This installment in our chef profile series features Justin Johnson who is executive chef at Harwood Place Retirement Community in Wauwatosa, a post he's held for two years. Harwood Place has about 200 residents.

Does that make you think Johnson defrosts a lot of Salisbury steak and peas and pre-sliced carrots? Think again. Harwood Place is a "high-end independent living complex."

"In two years," says Johnson, "we have taken what once was an almost exclusively institutional food program and turned it into a full service, fine dining establishment. It is my dream that, through what we've been able to accomplish at Harwood Place, we can inspire other chefs to consider jobs in senior living communities, as they are starved for great food and highly appreciative of the craft and art of fine cuisine."

This winter the residents of The Arches are eating roasted rack of lamb with mint curry, spice fried Yukon gold potatoes and Nameko mushrooms; seared sea bass with hot house rhubarb, Israeli couscous and seared lemon thyme Brussels sprout leaves; and butter poached halibut with braised Savoy cabbage and sunchoke puree.

What's on your menu tonight?

We decided to take this rare opportunity to find out how a young chef like Johnson has bucked expectations and made "The Terrace" and "The Arches" at Harwood Place retirement complex some of the best places to eat in Tosa.

OnMilwaukee.com: Tell us a bit about yourself. Are you a Milwaukee native?

Justin Johnson: I'm originally from Slinger. I moved to Milwaukee when I was 20. Really, I came here to try my hand at acting. While doing various student and community theater plays, I paid the bills by cooking. I worked at the Waterfront Deli, Pier 347, The Shorewood Inn and the Barclay Garden Café, to name a few. Eventually, I tired of acting and discovered that food was fun. After nine years of working odd jobs as a cook, I decided that I needed to go to school.

OMC: What kind of experience and training brought you to your current position?

JJ: I attended the Cooking and Hospitality Institute of Chicago / Le Cordon Bleu program. It's funny, the first thing that I learned in culinary school was that I didn't know nearly as much as I thought I did about food. That was the best way for me to start my education. Just throw out everything you think you know. I was really humbled by the experience. Being away from home -- away from my wife, Jessica, and newborn son, Max -- I was able to become extremely focused and keep my eye on the prize throughout. I was utterly undistracted by the college experience. My only goal was perfection ... and to learn as much as I possibly could from my instructors who, frankly, scared the living daylights out of me.

OMC: Did you think, while studying at Le Cordon Bleu, that you'd be where you are today?

JJ: I did. Or, at least, that was my plan. I am still sort of amazed that it actually worked. But honestly, I had been a cook for nine years and the last position I held in a kitchen before going to school was as a sous chef. So, it seemed only logical to me that when I came out of school, I would need to get to the next level quickly, if not immediately. Despite being offered a line cook position at one of Milwaukee's top restaurants, I was confident that I could hold out for a head job. Fortunately for me and my family, that opportunity did arrive. I was hired as the opening chef for a new restaurant Downtown. That experience came with a world of challenges that I did not perceive but challenges that, nevertheless, pushed me to be better.

OMC: How do you overcome the preconceived notions about what the food is like in communities like Harwood Place?

JJ: That's a loaded question. First of all, "overcoming" the preconceived notions is almost impossible because there are still an awful lot of communities that are living up to the stigma that senior living is not synonymous with quality food. The institutional model in retirement communities is alive and well in many places for a number of valid reasons. First of all, it's easy to prepare and cheap to produce. Furthermore, there is a mentality often found in these communities that seniors will not appreciate better food or will be alienated by contemporary dishes. And I've found this to be completely untrue. Our focus from day one has been fresh, scratch cooking. You don't make a change from all frozen, dried, powdered, pre-made food to all fresh, seasonal, from-scratch cooking in one day. In fact, depending on the size of any given facility, it's hard to make the complete transition in a year. But, we have taken great care to integrating fine food with humility and an open mind so that residents can feel a part of the process and the journey, and not as though things are being taken away from them or that time is leaving them behind.

OMC: What can you tell us about the menu there?

JJ: We run a cycle menu that changes with the seasons and features two entrees nightly. If I had to describe the culinary style, I would say it's a cross between "new" American and traditional French. Our nightly entrees differ slightly in that one, which we call our "Dining Room Special," is a throwback to a classic dish that residents may have grown up with or cooked themselves, such as braised short ribs, veal liver, beef rouladin, or coq au vin. Then, I have a "Chef's Feature" which is something slightly more contemporary, however, still accessible and recognizable. No molecular gastronomy here. Those dishes will consist of sea scallops a la nage with lemon beurre blanc, seared sea bass, bleu cheese tenderloin, or tea smoked duck breast. We also do our own desserts, such as molten chocolate souffles, crème brulè, or a spiced pear upside down cake.

OMC: Do you get suggestions from residents? How about feedback? Did you meet resistance?

JJ: Do I get suggestions from residents? Let me soak that question in for a moment. Ah ... yes. Remember, we are working in their home, so naturally everyone has their ideas and opinions about how food should be made. And actually, part of my job is leading a resident-comprised food committee that is made up of resident elected "floor representatives" who come to the meeting with comment cards that might be praise for our efforts, suggestions, or yes, even complaints. In this meeting, we discuss these items and I offer responses. As for resistance, I think it's human nature to resist change or question things we don't yet understand. And that is where we have benefited most from the gift of time. It has been a long process of making a very complicated transition. Certainly, residents have been effected most by the tribulations of making the sorts of large-scale changes that we have. But in the end our goal is to offer the best food possible to them.

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Talkbacks

icehouse | Jan. 16, 2011 at 12:22 a.m. (report)

Justin comments taking what was institutional food at Harwood. Turning it upscale. The dining at Harwood was never institutional. This is from knowing some of the resident who live or lived there before Justin came on board. Everything was comfort foods. They grew up on and loved. They didn't mind a upscale dinner on holidays. But for your traditional weeknight dinner they wanted their comfort foods. Not saying what Justin has on the menues now is bad. It's all very nice. But if I were to move into retirement housing. I would not be wanting all them fancy meals on a daily basis. Thinking this is senior living. People there are living on a budget. They do not want to spend what it probably costs for an upscale meal on a daily basis. I wish Justin well on his new venture at the Hotel Metro. His menues will fit in great there.

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Janet Driscoll | Sept. 25, 2010 at 5:51 p.m. (report)

Great article that's timely and worth reading. Met Justin Johnson of Harwood Place today at Tosa Village Fest. His rack of Strauss Lamb was fabulous!

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mkegirl | Jan. 8, 2010 at 6:10 p.m. (report)

great article, and good for justin johnson! just one criticism: "Certainly, residents have been effected most by the tribulations of making the sorts of large-scale changes that we have." it should be "affected," not effected...

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Victor Golf | Jan. 8, 2010 at 2:32 p.m. (report)

I like to take my shots at OMC, so I guess I have to give props when due. I really enjoyed that article.

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