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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Wednesday, May 16, 2012

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In Dining

Only six percent of the world's coffee scores an 80 or higher.

In Dining

"Sometimes you have to listen to your mouth and your senses and what they're telling you," says Hawthorne.

Coffee quality scores help you judge your java


Of all the beverages people consume, typically only wine and coffee get a ton of scrutiny from the masses. It's not uncommon to see wine graded and scored at liquor stores, but only Milwaukee's Stone Creek Coffee Roasters has expanded the practice to coffee.

Specifically, only owner Eric Resch and Steve Hawthorne, the company's vice president and green coffee buyer, are "Licensed Q Graders" by the Specialty Coffee Association of America, and Stone Creek now only sells beans that score over 80.

In fact, to the best of Hawthorne's knowledge, he and Resch are the only people in Wisconsin licensed to grade coffee by the SCAA.

"Other people can follow the system, but we're the only ones licensed in the state," says Hawthorne, who trained and studied at a lab in Minneapolis.

The maximum score from the SCAA is 100, but Hawthorne says he's never tasted a coffee that scored over a 96, and the highest-scored blend Stone Creek is selling right now is a 92. That's an indigenous brew from Burundi.

"Arguably, that's going to be one of the best cups of coffee you've ever had," says Hawthorne.

Only six percent of the world's coffee scores an 80 or higher. But do Resch and Hawthorne always agree on their scores?

"That's one of the purposes of the training to start to calibrate you with other people who in the industry," says Hawthorne. "We're always within one or two points of each other."

Can the average coffee drinker appreciate the difference between a coffee that scores, say, a 75, and one that ranks a 95?

"In that case, you can definitely tell the difference, and even if we sat down together and I put four or five different coffees in front of you, from 80 to 90, I think you would taste the difference.

"Sometimes you have to listen to your mouth and your senses and what they're telling you," says Hawthorne.

Hawthorne says the system helps provide a foundation for pricing coffee based on quality, and Stone Creek pays more to farmers who sell coffee that scores higher.

"There's a built-in incentive that way," he says.

If you go to Stone Creek and just order a cup of coffee, Hawthorne says you'll most likely get one that scores 84 or better, but no, Hawthorne has never seen a coffee score a perfect 100.

"That 96 was a Kenyan coffee that I was fortunate enough to be with a group in the industry that had it on the table, and I was able to try it," says Hawthorne.

"It was really, really good."


Talkbacks

littletinyfish | May 9, 2011 at 3:21 p.m. (report)

I've always liked Stone Creek's coffee the best (I wish they had a place closer to the East Side/Riverwest), but I honestly don't know that I would care to taste the difference between a 70 or a 90. Coffee is coffee. But maybe I'll grab a friend and make them buy the more expensive one and share...

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swag | May 7, 2011 at 1:46 p.m. (report)

I'm confused by this article. It makes it sound like SCAA Q-grading somehow has a monopoly on coffee quality scoring. As for an equivalent in wine, even Robert Parker does not enjoy such a monopoly. Meanwhile, people like Kenneth Davids at CoffeeReview.com and Tom Owen at SweetMarias.com have each been grading and quality scoring coffees for over a decade now.

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mkechica33 | May 6, 2011 at 7:43 p.m. (report)

I've been into one of their stores recently and one thing bothers me about this. They use a coffee's score to set its price, yet they are the ones grading it. I would prefer it to be backed up by an outside source. How does a customer know whether or not the coffee is as good as they claim. The company's owners would be biased sources...

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