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Milwaukee's Daily Magazine for Monday, July 28, 2014

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In Dining Commentary

The main kitchen line at Sanford is anchored by a veritable icon of French cooking - a cast iron cook top that throws off heat like an incinerator.

In Dining Commentary

Sanford's culinary team is focused, professional and dedicated.

In Dining Commentary

This is a team of serious cooks, polished to the core.

In Dining Commentary

The dining room, soon to be filled with diners indulging in the fruits of the kitchen's hidden labor.

The Engine Room: An evening at Sanford


Since the legendary John Ernst Cafe opened in 1878, the hardworking and fun-loving Milwaukee-born have scoffed at "big city" food bent on fussiness and ostentation.

In time, and after an unprecedented run, this style of dining began to feel tired. Being served a plate of dense meatloaf with gravy and a side of peas and carrots by a beefy gal in a dirndl no longer felt novel; it just felt weird.

Naturally, this gave way to a new crop of chefs and food, which showed all of us youngsters that fine food is possible in this city known for brats and cheese.

While these new dining experiences and dazzling menus are well documented by our resident restaurant reviewers, there is little known among the general public about how that food becomes reality.

Welcome to my series, "The Engine Room," which will take you into the kitchens of some of Milwaukee's coolest restaurants, led by some of its most relevant chefs. These chefs are working to break the mold and introduce – not force – interesting ingredients, off-beat dishes and edgy techniques onto the sometimes reticent but nonetheless intrigued palettes of Milwaukee restaurant-goers.

For this pilot installment, I could think of no place better than Sanford. Truth be told, I still rue my decision to seek a head chef's position as my first job out of Le Cordon Bleu in Chicago instead of pursuing an entry-level post at Sanford. At the time, I bore the responsibility of a young family and was zealously angling for money. To a student and a mid-20s up-and-comer, Sanford emanated a mystique of grandeur.

So, as you might imagine, being given an all-access backstage pass during a typical Wednesday night service at Sanford was kind of like a NASCAR fan getting to ride shotgun with Jeff Gordon.

Why would they let me do this? Well, partially because I'm a chef that understands what a kitchen is and what is involved. But more so, as Chef Justin Aprahamian put it when I thanked him at the end of the night for letting me hang, "we've got nothing to hide."

It's 4 p.m. on a Wednesday night – Leap Day. The first reservations of the evening are set for 6 p.m. A couple of deuces followed by several more two-tops throughout the night equal a respectable 19 covers (not including walk-ins) for a dreary and misty evening.

I meet Chef Justin at the back door delivery entrance, which leads past the walk-in cooler and into the catacombs. If you live in an old Milwaukee house on the East Side, your basement is probably not much different. Minus the dry storage, chest freezers, a modest prep kitchen and plaques commemorating magazine and newspaper accolades from years gone by, the citadel of Sanford is unspectacular and in this way comforting – perhaps a poetic salute to its humble beginnings.

Only if you've never read anything about Sanford would you not know that the now-renowned restaurant began as Sandy's father's grocery store so many years ago. Many of the relics of this era remain, including an old-school meat slicer bearing an almost art deco design that is used to this day for slicing house-cured meats.

The main kitchen line is anchored by a veritable icon of French cooking – a cast iron cook top that throws off heat like an incinerator. Chef Justin is particularly fond of this piece of equipment and tells me he couldn't imagine life without it. He talks of its even heat distribution and the benefits of not having an open flame bend up around a sauce pot to char its inside edges.

The entire working kitchen is, to my layman's eye, roughly 15 by 20 feet with an additional galley way for pot washing.

After I get the grand tour, it's time for family meal. Family meal is a small spread of food made from leftovers or extras and put out for the staff – cooks, servers, hosts, porters – anyone who's hungry and on the payroll. Aside from feeding the famished help before hunkering down for service, it plays an important role in building team morale. Everyone heaps up their plates with, in this instance, a mélange of Penne Bolognese, ham sandwiches, a tasty little potato and queen olive salad and a delicious cake made by Sandy himself for a Milwaukee Journal Sentinel photo shoot.

Groups of four or five take their turn sitting at a front corner window table to eat and, on most nights, discuss anything not work-related. But on this night, they are joined by an outsider. Me.

We discuss sourcing, farmer's market visits and typical nightly covers as Chef Justin intermittently receives briefings on upcoming event appearances and newspaper interviews, and appraises the occasional tasting spoon of passion fruit pastry cream or mushroom reduction used as a base for a transcendent truffle vinaigrette. "It's good," he may say, or "it needs to reduce a little more."

As the brigade continues to prepare for service, we're able to talk about menu philosophy. Chef Justin breaks out a three-inch-thick binder containing every single menu he ran in the past year. As I peruse some of them, I realize something. Despite the perception that Sanford is a top-dollar, elegant, exacting and refined restaurant (all of which is true), this is comfort food. Whether it's a D'Amato signature like grilled wild sturgeon on crab hash and pancetta red onion vinaigrette or an Aprahamian original like grilled scallops and shrimp, paprika almond crisp, almond cream and sherry gastrique, this is simple, earthy, honest food.

I pose a question about molecular gastronomy: "What do you think? Do you use it?"

While Chef Justin admits to dabbling in it and finding it interesting, he reveals that it is not preferable if it doesn't improve the flavor or the experience of eating. We shared this sentiment, as I've often felt that the molecular movement is all style and no substance. There are, of course, exceptions. But Justin encapsulated the restaurant's view of this modern movement acutely by recounting a story about a time he prepared sous vide pearl onions for the man he describes as a Jedi.

He tells me that Sandy, after trying the vacuum-packed and control-cooked onions, surmised that they'd have been better had he just blanched them properly and roasted them.

Sandy and Justin have no intention of doing anything just to do it. If it doesn't serve the food or enhance the experience, why bother?

Then we discuss "entrance" into the fabled Sanford kitchen. "What does it take to get the job here?" I ask. Resoundingly, the response is "attitude." Chef Justin continues, "no one here, except Sandy, went to the CIA [the Culinary Institute of America]. We can teach people how to cook. I can't teach them to want to be here." Page 1 of 2 (view all on one page)

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