More than ever it seems that Wisconsin foodies are embracing the culinary treasures and traditions of America's Dairyland.
While books have been written before about Wisconsin cheese, James Norton and Becca Dilley's "The Master Cheesemakers of Wisconsin" -- published in large-format paperback by The University of Wisconsin Press ($24.95) -- focuses specifically on the men and women who create the delicious and award-winning cheeses on Wisconsin.
In nearly three dozen illustrated profiles of 43 active master cheesemakers Norton and Dilley get to the heart of the passion that makes the Badger State America's cheesiest state.
Norton and Dilley -- who are married -- are both natives of Madison and both alumni of UW-Madison. They are currently based in Minneapolis. We asked Norton -- who was recently in town to celebrate Thanksgiving at his grandparents' home in Whitefish Bay -- about the book and about Wisconsin cheese.
OnMilwaukee.com: You know I have to start with this one: Wisconsin or California cheese?
James Norton: If you like quantity ... well, I was going to say that if you like quantity, go with California, but actually Wisconsin out-produces California these days in terms of cheese.
On the quality front, it's no contest -- the number of Wisconsin gold medals in international and national cheese competitions is much larger than many cheese producing countries, to say nothing of other states. In terms of varieties, it's 200-something for California and 600-something for Wisconsin.
Don't get me wrong: There are definitely some excellent California cheeses out there -- but there are far more being made right here.
OMC: What makes Wisconsin's cheesemakers so special? Is it ethnicity, is it the long tradition, is it the grass the cows eat?
JN: Some of all of that. Wisconsin cheesemakers often have two, three or even four generations of experience. This state also has a lot of dairy vets per capita and a very strong education and financial support infrastructure -- particularly through the University of Wisconsin and the Center for Dairy Research, which support our farmers and cheesemakers. The Wisconsin Milk Marketing Board, which helped support our book, also does a bang-up job.
One thing that's particularly exciting about Wisconsin cheese, however -- and this is something celebrated by the Master Cheesemaker program -- is the degree to which our dairy artisans play around with new ideas. There are many, many cheeses that are Wisconsin Originals -- even old standards like Brick and Colby got their start here. Cheesemakers at plants from the small -- Bob Wills at Cedar Grove -- to the medium-sized -- Carr Valley with Sid Cook and Thomas Jenny -- to the very big -- Gregg Palubicki at Alto/Saputo -- are playing around with some really fascinating new cheeses, often in collaboration with one another.
OMC: Do you think Wisconsinites really appreciate the diversity and quality of the state's cheesemaking or are we caught in something of a curd rut? Do we focus too much on just a couple cheeses and undervalue the rest?
JN: Ten years ago, I think I would have agreed with the premise of this question, but touring the state in support of our book, we've been thrilled to see how much Wisconsin artisan cheese is being bought -- at specialty cheese shops like Larry's in Brown Deer, at local grocery stores and on restaurant menus. I think everyone and their mother has really begun to explore some of the more exotic types out there, particularly for special occasions.
I'm bringing a fancy goat Gouda to Thanksgiving with my grandparents in Whitefish Bay, and I think it's going to go over quite nicely.
OMC: How does the future look for small artisan cheesemakers in Wisconsin? Has the sagging economy hit them hard?
JN: Actually, many -- if not most -- of the cheesemakers we've talked to are doing quite well. Artisan cheese is an affordable luxury, and we've seen more cheese plants open in Wisconsin in recent years than close -- a reversal of a nasty trend that was many decades old.
Volatile milk prices are a real challenge -- the price of milk used to be much more stable -- and it's a tough, demanding business. But many Wisconsin cheesemakers, small and large, are doing a booming business.
OMC: I know it's not fair and it's a horrific scenario, but if you could only eat one Wisconsin cheese for the rest of your life, what would you choose?
JN: Oh, that's absolutely not fair. But if you forced me to answer, I might go with 8-year aged cheddar -- it's wonderful with a glass of Scotch or bourbon. That's one of my favorite ways to kick back in the evening. But, honestly, my "favorite" cheese changes from day to day and from event to event -- sometimes you want a nutty, aged parm, sometimes you want a young, pliable Gouda-style farmstead cheese. And sometimes you want batter-fried cheese curds.
OMC: How did you decide who to include in the book?
JN: We tried to interview and photograph every single certified Wisconsin master cheesemaker -- there are 45 active ones right now, and we were able to profile 43 of them. If the book sees another printing, I'm going to see if our publisher will let us round out the list with the two we weren't able to reach.
OMC: Presumably there are a lot of others out there. Will there be a sequel?
JN: Possibly! There's a lot of interesting stuff going on with farmstead cheese right now -- where the cheesemakers also own the cows -- and it would be fun to put our fingers on the pulse of that movement. And maybe the Master Cheesemakers of England or Quebec need some documentation. Wisconsin will always be first in our hearts, but if we're invited to travel in order to try more great cheese, we might give the suggestion some thought.
Born in Brooklyn, N.Y., where he lived until he was 17, Bobby received his BA-Mass Communications from UWM in 1989 and has lived in Walker's Point, Bay View, Enderis Park, South Milwaukee and on the East Side.
He has published three non-fiction books in Italy – including one about an event in Milwaukee history, which was published in the U.S. in autumn 2010. Four more books, all about Milwaukee, have been published by The History Press.
With his most recent band, The Yell Leaders, Bobby released four LPs and had a songs featured in episodes of TV's "Party of Five" and "Dawson's Creek," and films in Japan, South America and the U.S. The Yell Leaders were named the best unsigned band in their region by VH-1 as part of its Rock Across America 1998 Tour. Most recently, the band contributed tracks to a UK vinyl/CD tribute to the Redskins and collaborated on a track with Italian novelist Enrico Remmert.
He's produced three installments of the "OMCD" series of local music compilations for OnMilwaukee.com and in 2007 produced a CD of Italian music and poetry.
In 2005, he was awarded the City of Asti's (Italy) Journalism Prize for his work focusing on that area. He has also won awards from the Milwaukee Press Club.
He has be heard on 88Nine Radio Milwaukee talking about his "Urban Spelunking" series of stories, in that station's most popular podcast.
