By Andy Tarnoff Publisher Published Oct 29, 2002 at 5:43 AM

People who know me will attest that I've been saying this for years: Monkeys are cool. I'm happy to report that Milwaukeeans are finally agreeing with me, first by opening The Monkey Bar in Walker's Point, and now by launching Palms Bistro/Bar (221 N. Broadway) in the Historic Third Ward.

The décor at Palms can only be described as "upscale monkey." Imagine safari-meets-Cream City brick, and you'll get the general idea. With commissioned paintings of chimps striking elegant poses adorning the wall, the occasional palm tree resting in the corner and seatbacks in jungle patterns, the restaurant/bar was already off to a smashing start before I even placed my order.

The Palms lunch menu is upscale, American bistro style. I ordered the grilled New York Strip salad over spring greens, with rice noodles and ginger dressing. My dining companion, as well as a friend at the other end of the restaurant, ordered the turkey sandwich special: grilled turkey with a three-cheese blend on a French bread toast. Both meals came with a roll from Shorewood's City Market. The sandwich was served with a choice of Asian slaw or waffle fries. My companion also ordered a roasted corn chowder, which was delicious.

My salad was quite good, especially the dressing. The standard dressing for this dish, according to the menu, is lemon miso, though our server suggested I try the ginger variety. My dining companion described her sandwich as average, however my friend across the restaurant was quite pleased. The presentation was excellent, and the variety of the lunch menu is impressive, not surprising, consider the chef is a transplant from the Boulevard Inn.

Prices are moderate, with the salad coming in at $8.95. A Black Angus burger is just $6.50, and the most expensive dish on the lunch menu, the seared shrimp and penne pasta, is $10.75.

By night, Palms becomes a full-on lounge, with an extensive wine and cocktail menu. Monkey-themed drinks (our server told us the owner simply loves primates) round out the selections, with options including the "Monkey Java" and "Gorillas in the Mist." The bar mixes up almost a dozen martinis, as well. With a classy second floor to the restaurant, our server told us that bar business has been brisk in the establishment's first two weeks of operations. I went back to the bar on a Saturday night, and he was right. The upstairs portion had a good crowd, though it wasnt packed. I enjoyed a delicious frozen bannana drink (for $9) and a Heineiken for $5. Granted, I've never paid that much for 12 ounces of beer in Milwaukee, and my friend from Chicago in town that night told me that $5 is steep even in the windy city. We'll see if frugal Milwaukeeans will bite at this upscale nightlife option.

Palms also serves late into the night with their after hours menu, including baked brie appetizers, focaccia dough pizza and sandwiches. Clearly, this new restaurant/bar has hit the ground running.

There are a few kinks to work out, but one has to cut a little slack to this brand new and welcome addition to the Third Ward nightlife scene. Our server was extremely polite and knowledgeable, though our food took 25 minutes to arrive.

I found the food good, but not great, but I certainly wouldn't hesitate to return to try more. The monkey-themed evening lounge is certain to delight the chimp lover in one and all, and is worth a visit for curiosity's sake alone. I'm betting Palms will continue to refine its style, eventually becoming one of the area's finer places in which to hang out.

Andy is the president, publisher and founder of OnMilwaukee. He returned to Milwaukee in 1996 after living on the East Coast for nine years, where he wrote for The Dallas Morning News Washington Bureau and worked in the White House Office of Communications. He was also Associate Editor of The GW Hatchet, his college newspaper at The George Washington University.

Before launching OnMilwaukee.com in 1998 at age 23, he worked in public relations for two Milwaukee firms, most of the time daydreaming about starting his own publication.

Hobbies include running when he finds the time, fixing the rust on his '75 MGB, mowing the lawn at his cottage in the Northwoods, and making an annual pilgrimage to Phoenix for Brewers Spring Training.