Chang's China Bistro off to a good start

Despite having visited cities already settled by the P.F. Chang's China Bistro family, we didn't know what to expect when we visited the newly-opened restaurant at Mayfair Mall two days after it opened, having never eaten at one. A three-hour wait prevented us from staying, but not from returning a few days later to try again.

Luckily, things had cooled a bit -- although not outside where temperatures approached 100 degrees -- and our wait was about an hour and a half. When we returned from shopping, we were told we'd need to wait another 15 or 20 minutes. However, moments after ordering beers at the bar, we were called and the bar waiter was left scouring the medium-to-large-sized dining room for us.

There were at least a half-dozen employees buzzing around the hostess station but there still seemed to be some confusion among them about procedures. After being called, none of them seemed sure where we would be seated and by whom.

However, once we arrived at our table, we were promply given water and menus and greeted by an extremely friendly server, who described the bevy of sauces on a plate in front of her: white vinegar, soy sauce, chile oil, hot mustard, chili paste and potsticker sauce, a mixture of the former three. She added a dollop of mustard and a dash of chili paste to create a "special sauce" that she assured us would perfectly complement the lettuce wrap appetizers (see photo).

So, we tried the vegetable version ($6.25, there's also chicken, $6.50), along with a plate of four crisp, but excessively oily, veggie spring rolls ($4.50). Another server brought these dishes, explaining that the filling is inserted into the crisp iceberg lettuce leaves and eaten "like a Chinese taco." While the wraps were a little plain on their own, our server's special sauce did the trick, adding a dash of saltiness and heat to the cubed tofu, red onions, water chestnuts, mint and lime on a bed of straw noodles.

For entrees, we tried the Mu Shu Pork ($8.95) and the Orange Peel Shrimp ($12.95).

After wrapping a pancake of the Mu Shu Pork myself, our server asked if she could do the rest and I was happy to oblige -- even though I find the wrapping to be half the fun of mu shu -- to see how well she could do it using a pair of spoons. Although admitting this was only her second attempt, she did a fine job and talked to us about the restaurant and told us that the staff of about 50 or 60 servers trained for a week before opening day.

The orange peel shrimp had the lightest crust of breading which is preferable to heavy batters of some restaurants. A sweet and sour sauce was hot and peppery with the orange zest adding zing.

The entrees -- which came in ample portions -- were served with a choice of white or brown rice, so we tried a bowl of each. Although perfectly sticky (it's Chinese rice, after all, isn't it), both were cool by the time they reached the table.

All the wait staff was friendly and helpful, but the double and triple-teaming of serving lacked continuity. Also, our beer server, although extremely amiable, seemed eager to be paid for the beer right away, rather than offering to carry it over to our dining tab for our convenience.

The dining room was a pleasant oasis from the scorching heat outside, with low lighting, muted browns and comfortable booths. Only a mural above the partially open kitchen and some Chinese style statues hint at the cuisine. The music was a bit louder than you would find in most restaurants, giving the place a certain TGIFriday's vibe. The soundtrack was decidedly un-Chinese, with Rolling Stones, Natalie Merchant and Counting Crows, among others, in the rotation.

Especially considering it was in its first week when we visited, Chang's is off to a good start, offering decent food at a decent price. If you're looking for Chinese restaurant atmosphere, look elsewhere. And, although Chang's is worth checking out, don't forget that there are still lots of good family-owned Chinese restaurants in town, too.