{image1}Combining two great Milwaukee restaurateurs like Nick Anton (La Perla) and Mimma Megna (Mimma's) can only lead to good things. And although Vucciria, 1323 E. Brady St., is still working out the kinks experienced by any new restaurant, the amazing atmosphere offers a glimpse of great things to come.
Vucciria is the name of the market in Palermo's Castellammare quarter. Like its namesake, Vucciria aims to please with a menu of fresh, fine Italian meats, vegetables, cheeses and other Italian delights.
There are four good reasons to try Vucciria: marvellous atmosphere, great coffee, desserts and gelato. Each evening, the restaurant offers up to 12 desserts and 20-24 different flavors of gelato, an Italian version of ice cream (but which has no cream). Don't expect American ice cream here; gelato is a mixture of whole milk, eggs and natural flavors and has a creamy smoothness that our ice creams and custards, which are colder, can't touch.
On a recent visit, we tried the arancine (rice balls filled with meat, green peas and raisins, which are breaded and deep fried, $3) and the gnocchi di patate (Italian potato dumplings, breaded and deep fried, $2). Both appetizers -- from the "Tavola Calda" (hot table) section of the menu -- were a little bland on their own. So order them with a side of the house marinara.
The frutta e formaggio -- fruit platter with fontina, gorgonzola, parmesan and pecorino cheeses -- ($14.95) came with a lovely presentation of fresh, sweet berries and melons, but we would have preferred to have had the flavourful cheeses with the assorted foccacie ($2.50) which our waitress forgot to bring to the table. We also were unable to try the ravazzate (a baked Italian roll filled with ground beef, green peas and raisins) because the kitchen had run out of them.
{image2}The pizzas on Vucciria menu offer a welcome change of ingredients from the standard Milwaukee pizzerias. Here you'll find seafood pizzas with mussels, smoked salmon, shrimp and calamari, vegetarian pies with eggplant, artichokes and rupini, and meat pizzas with salami, pancetta and prosciutto, in addition to standard pepperoni and sausage pies.
Be aware, however, that some pizzas come with cold toppings, as we were surprised to discover with the Agrigento (prosciutto, fresh tomatoes, arugula, gorgonzola, olive oil and balsamic vinaigrette, $12.95). We also tried the Bellini (grilled eggplant, tomato sauce, mozzarella and Romano cheese and basil, $10.95) which tasted somewhat like eggplant Parmigiano.
The insalata di mare ($14.95) came piled high with petite shrimp, pieces of crabmeat, calamari and octopus, with a powerful dressing of olive oil, capers and fresh lemon juice.
Due to a short-staffed bar, the indoor service was excruciatingly slow (we had to wait 25 minutes to order after being seated), and they ran out of wine glasses. Outdoor service appeared to be much more efficient, and so our experience was likely due to inexperienced wait staff, a correctable problem. And, in the interim, we were able to take in the beautiful, hip décor and the eclectic music that embodies the new restaurant.
Vucciria (414-431-9241) opens seven days a week at 10 a.m. Closing time is 2 a.m.; Sunday-Thursday, 2:30 a.m., Friday and Saturday. Smoking is permitted upstairs and in the outdoor seating area. All major credit cards accepted.
