Chicago is onto us.

I know. It’s not the first time Milwaukee has received accolades for our great eats (nor, I predict, will it be the last), but "The Hottest Spot in Milwaukee Only Serves Ramen – at Midnight," an article published this morning in Fooditor, hones in on one of the city’s best late night offerings: Red Light Ramen at Ardent, 1751 N. Farwell Ave.

And it does it well.

It’s always great, of course, to see acknowledgement for our city from visiting folks. But, it’s even better when the account is written by a James Beard-Award-winning food writer like Michael Gebert.

The ramen is no secret to those who have stood in line for the noodle-based soup at 11 p.m. on a Friday or Saturday night (a line which often stretches down the street or around the block, I might add). But my guess is there are still a host of Milwaukeeans who haven’t wandered down to see the red glow emanating from burlap covered windows on a cool Milwaukee evening.

"The big difference between theirs and other ramens in town, though, is that there’s a lot of seafood flavor in it," the author notes, walking the reader through the process Chef Justin Carlisle uses to make his dashi, nori and bonito-filled ramen broth – a delicacy that customers slurp down eagerly, along with alcohol-infused slushies (or tall cans of PBR).

The article also captures the merriment of the weekend ritual, including instances where kitchen staff will head outside "just before opening and give high fives to everyone in line, or Carlisle will get in line himself ‘and ask people, like, 'What’s this for? What’s in there? Is it any good?’"

And that – in addition to the heart-warming soul food being served up bowl after rich bowl – is just part of the charm.

Red Light Ramen serves Friday and Saturday nights from 11:30 p.m. until about 1 a.m.