The great baseball writer Thomas Boswell once wrote a book called "Why Time Begins on Opening Day." For many, it really begins on the first day of spring training, when winter is put in the rearview mirror and every team's fan has equal rights to dream about a World Series.
The best way to enjoy the laid-back buzz of Brewers spring training is in Arizona, itself, where baseball can form the centerpiece of a great vacation.
Cactus League basics
The Brewers play 33 games in a schedule that kicks off Thursday and wraps up in Miller Park with a two-game homestand against Detroit. All but a handful of games are played at 1:05 p.m. local time, which is either one or two hours behind Milwaukee -- Arizona doesn't do Daylight Savings Time.
In total, Arizona hosts 15 teams in the Cactus League, which means the occasional off day -- so plan accordingly. All but one, including the Brewers, play in the Phoenix area. Arizona and Colorado play 90 minutes to the south in Tucson. There are clusters of teams in each part of the area -- Kansas City, Texas, Seattle and San Diego in the northwest, for example -- which can help cut down on your driving if you book your lodging nearby.
Cincinnati, one of the Crew's NL Central rivals, moved to Arizona this year, meaning that the Cactus League now has equaled the number of teams in the rival Grapefruit League in Florida.
The Brewers train at Maryvale Baseball Park, 3600 N. 51st Ave. -- a short jaunt west of downtown Phoenix off of I-10. Upon opening 12 years ago, Maryvale got a bad rap from some Midwesterners, who claim the park is in a rough area of town and not as aesthetically pleasing as newer stadiums. For those mapping the address, Maryvale is technically part of Phoenix.
While it's nothing like its upscale Scottsdale counterpart where the Giants play, Maryvale is safe, with plenty of good parking available. You probably wouldn't pick the neighborhood as your nighttime hangout, but it's spacious and friendly, and it has a field shaped just like Miller Park.
For accommodations, look for a motel that's centrally located between all the parks. You can't go wrong in Tempe or Scottsdale. Keep in mind, though, that Phoenix traffic is notoriously bad, and some parks are a 45-minute drive from anywhere. If you're looking to go upscale, you've got tons of options; among the best are the Four Seasons, Hotel Valley Ho, Westin Kierland, XONA and InterContinental Montelucia. All of these properties are awesome in different ways.
Even though the games don't count, there are always some great storylines that arise during each Spring Training. If you have the chance to catch multiple games, a few players will surely catch your eye and you can match your scouting skills with those of the pros.
There are also the aging veterans, looking for one last run at glory. Think Crash Davis from "Bull Durham" or Jake Taylor from "Major League." This year, keep an eye on Jim Edmonds, once the Cardinals centerfielder that Milwaukee fans loved to hate but now a 40-year-old on a minor league deal looking to squeeze himself into the outfield picture.
In the first half of March, it's all about talent assessment, and the Brewers will trot out dozens of young players in every game. Since all of the minor league affiliates train in Maryvale, you'll feel constantly surrounded by an army of no-name Brewers. But these are the stars of tomorrow and when they reach Miller Park you can say you saw them when.
The guy to watch this year: Alcides Escobar, a flashy shortstop and consensus as one of the best prospects in all of baseball. He's away from the minor league unknowns this year and ready to start his rookie year on the big club.
Get to games as early as you can, as watching these prospects practice is an experience you won't get in Milwaukee. They run from field to field -- Maryvale has a handful -- chatting and mingling with the fans. Most will sign autographs if you ask nicely.
Be sure to bring your own baseballs, baseball cards and Sharpie pens for the players to sign because they obviously aren't toting these in their back pockets. Kids fare best so encourage your children not to be shy.
Tickets range in price at the various ballparks (at Maryvale, they sell from $8 to $21), but here's an insider's tip: buy the cheapest ticket you can find. At most parks, including Maryvale, the outfield is called the berm, a sloped grassy area where you can spread out and watch the game from a relaxing incline. If you position yourself in the right place, catching home run balls is quite doable -- different teams draw bigger crowds, but not surprisingly, the attendance is frequently sparse at Brewers games -- which means it's easy to take home a souvenir.
If you want a real seat, just play it cool and sit somewhere that isn't occupied. With the exception of Cubs games at HoHoKam Park in Mesa and the Giants in Scottsdale, these games rarely sell out, and the laid-back ushers really don't mind where you plop yourself down and catch some sun.
You'll notice a big difference from Miller Park if you find yourself sitting in a real seat, however: the proximity to the field. The Cactus League ballparks are more than just intimate; you'll almost feel like you are sitting on the field. Foul balls are a plenty, so keep your eye on the game and bring your glove.
If possible, plan your trip around days when the Brewers play a mix of home and away games. All of the stadiums have their own unique charm, but some of the nicest parks include the Angels' Tempe Diablo Stadium, the Cubs' HoHoKam Park, the Royals' and Rangers' Surprise Stadium and the Giants' Scottsdale Stadium.
Beyond baseball
A week of sun and baseball may tire you out, but the fun doesn't stop after sundown in Phoenix. Tempe, the home of Arizona State University, sports a thriving collegiate nightlife, while Phoenix and Scottsdale offer a more upscale bar experience. If you must take a break from baseball, you can try a number of side trips. Some worth noting:
Daytrip to Nogales, Mexico: If you're in Tucson for a Brewers game (March 28 vs. the Diamondbacks), drive a little farther south to Nogales. You can walk across the border and shop or just take in the sights. Critics will tell you Nogales isn't "real Mexico," and they have a point, but it's a fun change from the ordinary. If you are really adventurous, plan a trip to Puerto Penasco (a.k.a. Rocky Point) three hours southeast in Sonora, Mexico. Just make sure you go during ASU's Spring Break.
Climb Camelback Mountain: Considered a novice climbing experience, it's still plenty challenging. Clear away a couple hours of your schedule for the free and breathtaking experience just north of Phoenix.
Play some golf on one of Arizona's 300 courses: Considered one of the world's top spots, it's a fair bet you haven't been able to break out your clubs in Milwaukee for months. Here's a link to our 2009 course review; stayed tuned for a 2010 review.
Visit Taliesin West in Scottsdale, the architecture school built by Wisconsin's own Frank Lloyd Wright: It's just as beautiful as the Spring Green original but completely different. Take the tour. Wright also designed Tempe's Grady Gammage Memorial Auditorium.
Drive north to Sedona, a beautiful artist community near Flagstaff: It takes a few hours, but it's well worth it. The landscape is like nothing you'll see in Wisconsin. Simply breathtaking and totally romantic.
Check out the cultural events the Phoenix / Scottsdale area has to offer: More info is available at the Arizona Department of Tourism Web site, arizonaguide.com.
If you get homesick: There is a surprising number of connections between Wisconsin and Arizona. Milwaukee custard king Karl Kopp owns an upscale restaurant called AZ88 in Scottsdale. He also opened a new restaurant in Phoenix last year called Hanny's. If you are a Packers fan (even out of season), there are several bars and restaurants in the Phoenix area that list themselves backers of the Green and Gold. The Buffalo Chip Saloon in Cave Creek was owned by Marla McGee, the daughter of Max, former Packers' wide receiver and radio color commentator. And a former Bayside couple owns two delis in Scottsdale called Kashman's Place.
No matter how you plan your trip, keep this phrase in mind, "It's spring training for everyone." Keep your schedule flexible and take the opportunity to relax. It's a sure bet you'll come back tan, rested and ready for the start of the 2010 baseball season with renewed passion for your Milwaukee Brewers.
Andy is the president, publisher and founder of OnMilwaukee. He returned to Milwaukee in 1996 after living on the East Coast for nine years, where he wrote for The Dallas Morning News Washington Bureau and worked in the White House Office of Communications. He was also Associate Editor of The GW Hatchet, his college newspaper at The George Washington University.
Before launching OnMilwaukee.com in 1998 at age 23, he worked in public relations for two Milwaukee firms, most of the time daydreaming about starting his own publication.
Hobbies include running when he finds the time, fixing the rust on his '75 MGB, mowing the lawn at his cottage in the Northwoods, and making an annual pilgrimage to Phoenix for Brewers Spring Training.