When Bacchus first opened its doors at 925 E. Wells St., in the former home of the Boulevard Inn, Milwaukee was on the cusp of a dining boom. More notable restaurants had opened in 2004 than the city had seen in at least a decade, and they joined a cast of characters that included destination restaurants like Barossa, Coast, Moceans, Roots and Sanford, among others.

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But Bacchus stood out from the crowd. It was lauded for its clean, modern feel and sleek decor. The bar and dining area were elegant and cozy, sporting 1940s vintage wood trim and shiny hardwood floors. Its menu included options like day boat halibut, rack of lamb and Maine lobster salad with cream sauce and radish sprouts. And its impressive floor to ceiling wine cabinet was stocked with about 230 bottles of wine.

Thanks to a refresh in 2019, which brought modern touches in the form of lighting, furniture and a backlit faux skylight in the dining room, Bacchus is still clean and modern even 20 years later. And it still reflects the finer dining experience that has always been its hallmark.

In February, Bacchus’ 20th anniversary was marked by the return of the restaurant’s a la carte menu, which had been paused during the pandemic, but missed by diners who appreciated its flexibility.

I’d likely consider myself one of those diners, as I appreciate the freedom to order multiple starters, share plates with dining companions and skip courses that don’t appeal or match my budget. So, I was very much looking forward to the opportunity to sit down and try it out.

(Note: both the three course menu and the chef’s tasting menu are both still available, as is the vegetarian three course menu, which I highly recommend, especially as local produce becomes more available).

Bacchus a la carte

The a la carte menu, from Executive Chef Nick Wirth and Chef de Cuisine Brent Davis, feels as if it’s on the cusp of spring. One leg lags behind, serving up cool weather comforts, while citrus and herbs fill in as we await the arrival of verdant baby greens, asparagus and peas.

Our meal began with a surprise split of Lanson Champagne, a benefit of the Bartolotta Rewards Program, which I wouldn’t have remembered had it not been for the kind reminder from our server.

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It was lovely to sip while perusing the menu, which I hadn’t taken the time to peruse before we arrived. 

Bread service was next to arrive (no, the tradition has not died, though it has become a rarity these days). Cranberry walnut bread and ciabatta were served with butter flecked with finishing salt.

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I was pleased to see octopus on the menu. It’s a dish I’ve eaten at Bacchus many times, through its many iterations, and it’s always tender and delicious. This plate featured tender pieces of octopus, beautifully charred and served atop creamy chickpea puree with bright, salty preserved lemon relish, perky Calabrian chili oil and earthy threads of saffron.

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The tuna crudo was beautiful and equally flavorful: a mix of sweet and savory from pappadew chutney and basil verjus played with bright citrus and umami-rich shoyu. Meanwhile the slices of radish and marinated jicama gave the dish texture.

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Our middle courses ate like a celebration of those final storage vegetables of the season before fresh spring produce takes their place. Apple salad showcased locally grown Hundred Acre greens with poached apples, sweet crisp candied pecans and LaClare Chevre. A cider vinaigrette gave the dish its classic flavor.

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Meanwhile, another Bacchus classic, butternut squash risotto, was creamy and smooth with sweet earthiness from the squash and a slight bit of smoke from lardons of bacon. The Pleasant Ridge Reserve took it all to the next level with its rich, salty flavor and slightly fruity finish. 

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Tender, fresh black cod ($46) was served with pearl couscous pilaf augmented with sweet roasted heirloom carrots and earthy-sweet burnt honey celeriac and a rich, buttery portion of beurre blanc flavored with dill.

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The special sounded delicious, so we also dove into a portion of tender, braised Wagyu beef cheek was served with buttery, earthy sauteed wild mushrooms over a creamy polenta flavored with smokey picante roasted poblano pepper. The poblano gave the inherently comfort-food-forward dish a bit of intrigue that leveled it up.

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Desserts are always a pleasure at Bacchus, and – while I’d had plenty to eat already – it was tough to resist the citrus tart with its shortcake crust, perfectly tart lemon curd, vanilla chantilly cream and fresh citrus fruit.

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At the opposite end of the spectrum, the Chocolate Trilogy was a balanced combination of layered milk and white chocolate mousses topped with a sphere of dark chocolate ice cream and presented atop chocolate sauce with crispy hazelnut royaltine.  

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That said, if you’re in the mood for something with fruit, herbal notes and chocolate, the Belle Heléne features poached pear and orange dacquoise with pear-thyme sorbet and warm chocolate sauce poured tableside right over the top. 

Bacchus is open Monday through Saturday from 5 to 9 p.m. Reservations can be made online.