{image1}Rumor has it that the average lifespan of a restaurant in Milwaukee is about three years. I'm not sure if anyone has ever done a study to confirm this, or if the constant revolving door of incoming and outgoing eateries in this city just perpetuates a misnomer that could easily be true.
Regardless, it is always nice to settle in for a meal at one of the establishments that has stood the test of Milwaukee's restaurant timeline.
Taqueria Azteca, 119 E. Oklahoma Ave., has an interesting history leading up to what will be its 15-year anniversary fiesta on Saturday, Sept. 10. Once housed in a tiny former greasy spoon on Lincoln and Howell in Bay View -- now home to another lively Mexican eatery, Xel-Há -- Taqueria Azteca moved six years ago to the former Dinner Bell location on Oklahoma and Chase, where today it serves a knockout sangria and some wonderful upscale food they call, "Old World Mexican cooking uniquely infused with European flavors."
To be honest, neither my dining companion nor I were particularly excited about going to Taqueria Azteca for our first visit. We had both eaten there years ago right after their move to the big, bright location, and we were both disappointed with food and service at that time.
{image2}However, the staff and the food here easily won back our business after two exceptional recent meals. Our server told us that after the move, one of the original owners, Frank Sanchez, left the establishment and just recently returned, as indicated by the menu for "Platillos de Pancho" or "Frank's Tex-Mex creations". All of Milwaukee should rejoice to have Sanchez back, because both of our visits to Taqueria Azteca yielded some amazing cuisine, service and the best guacamole in the city.
Rather than the typical store-bought tortillas, Taqueria Azteca serves its homemade salsa with slices of fried tortillas, which are also a delicious complement to the guacamole clasico (4 oz., $5.95, 10 oz. $9.95), a lively plate of chunks of fresh, ripe avocado interspersed with chopped tomatoes, onions and cilantro. This is the type of good guacamole you will crave for days after your dining experience.
Daily specials are handwritten on a dry erase board and feature unique options, which include ingredients such as ginger, spinach, and black beans. Albondigas (two Mexican meatballs in a tomato basil salsa, $7.95) were highly recommended by our server, and rightfully so. The two meatballs are tender and delicious and a few bites will find a piece of hardboiled egg in the center. Order this item with a spoon because the tomato basil salsa is too good to leave in the bowl once the meatballs are gone.
Arroz con pollo (Spanish rice and shredded chicken casserole, $7.95) was a delicious mix of tender, shredded chicken and a light, airy Spanish rice. The serving size on this entrée was easily enough for two meals, with the large mound of rice topped with a lovely sour cream, cilantro and aioli.
{image3}Burrito de carne asada ($7.95) was another two-meal entrée; a large flour tortilla had been stuffed beyond full with tender, adeptly seasoned skirt steak, pico de gallo, white rice, corn, black beans, and sour cream. Enchiladas tejano ($7.95) are offered in both vegetarian and meat versions and come smothered in a rich red chili ancho salsa.
Taqueria Azteca will celebrate its 15th anniversary Saturday, Sept. 10, from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. with drink and food specials. Stop in and salute it longevity and unique spin on Mexican cuisine. You can also see Taqueria Azteca at the Bay View Bash on Saturday, Sept. 17.
Taqueria Azteca is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday, 11 a.m.-2:30 p.m.; dinner Tuesday through Thursday, 5-10 p.m.; Saturday, 4-11 p.m., Sunday Brunch, 11 a.m.-4 p.m. For more information, call (414) 486-9447.
