By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Jan 18, 2001 at 5:11 AM

It's a lottery of good taste as each Tuesday afternoon the phone lines light up as callers scramble to secure one of the hottest tables in town and get a chance to put a knife and fork on a table size steak of which legends are made.

Little has changed at Milwaukee's oldest steak house since they opened their doors well over 50 years ago. It's reservations only, and those fortunate to have one will encounter the same active bar where cocktails and conversation have flowed for generations. It is here owner Ted continues the tradition of his late father and greets you, takes your drink order and allows the kitchen top get to work on your food before you are summoned to your table.

It's 1950s steakhouse, plain and simple. Dark woodwork sets the tone, and the dining room rocks each night. It's nonstop action from start to finish and the dining room is a constant blur of activity. People come here to eat, overeat and eat some more.

Ah, did someone say steaks? That's what brings them in and keeps them coming back for more. Monster-sized and high quality, they serve as a foundation for one of the most unusual dining experiences in the city. At Coerper's, size does indeed count, and it affects performance, too. It's extra large everything. From the gigantic bowl of fresh greens and relish tray, to the loaf of sour dough bread, to the one pound baked potatoes to the charbroiled steaks (so heavy that they are wheeled to the table). Nobody leaves here hungry. Meat choices include a huge tenderloin, T-bone and porterhouse. But steer yourself to the New York strip, a fork tender beauty that is simply one great piece of meat.

Be warned that there is a direct correlation between carnivores and smoking. The nonsmoking section continues to shrink. Not a bad price to pay for one of the best steaks in the city.

After 50 years of business, Coerper's has developed a loyal clientele of all shapes and sizes. Young and old, dressed and casual, these folks are here to eat and take no prisoners.

As for drinks, it's a full bar and slim wine list. This is a cocktail lounge of the '50s, and martinis and Manhattans are the rule of the day.