By Andy Tarnoff Publisher Published May 10, 2008 at 5:07 AM

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SCOTTSDALE, ARIZ. -- In Milwaukee, you'd be hard-pressed to find a restaurant inside a golf resort so good that you'd actually travel all the way across town just for dinner.

But if you ever find yourself in Phoenix, make the trip to Deseo, a "Nuuvo Latino" restaurant inside the Westin Kierland Resort, 6902 E. Greenway Pkwy.

It's hardly centrally-located in the valley -- in fact, it's on the far north side of Scottsdale. That said, if you're lucky enough to stay at this gorgeous hotel, Deseo is a must visit. Or, if you're just craving a creative dining experience that you simply can't get in Milwaukee, it's really worth the drive.

Our group dined at Deseo in late March, knowing nothing of what was in store for us. We quickly discovered, however, that we were about to experience something unique when we descended the stairs into the colorful, Cuban-inspired lounge. Resident artist Nelson Garcia actually paints on the premises Tuesday through Saturday, and guests can watch him do his work while enjoying a cocktail -- or one of 2,000 wines that Deseo stocks in its cellar.

Arriving at dusk, we experienced the restaurant come alive with color as the sun set over the award-winning golf course outside. If you can imagine a Southwestern take on Prairie style -- combined with a Latin flair -- you get the idea.

For drinks, we ordered from Deseo's "muddle bar," which is the restaurant's take on mojitos, with exotic fresh fruits and sticks of sugar cane. At $11 and $12 for a cocktail, this was to be no bargain dinner -- but it was well worth it.

We ordered three appetizers: the free-range chicken empanadas ($10), the Kobe meatballs ($13) and the shrimp Chicharron ($12). Our server brought us fresh rolls that tasted different than anything I've had before: slightly sweet, puffy and dense, that melded perfectly with garlic butter. Our trio almost wondered if we'd have room for the entrees.

Fortunately, we did. I ordered the delicious Churrasco of beef ($30), which was uniquely seasoned and delicious. Bill had the Abodo rubbed bone-in rib eye steak ($30), and Paul had the "Dorado Ajilo," a mahi-mahi dish ($27). We also ordered a side of grilled white asparagus for $7. Finally, we finished with a dessert sampling of three tiny cheesecakes ($10).

I rarely say this about a dinner, but everything was perfect. Flavors came alive from seasonings like Chimichurri, an Argentinean marinade, and garlic potatoes that accentuated the entrees' unique spices.

Our group went in with no expectations and left simply blown away. For a trip that mostly consisted of ballpark food and burritos, we had a chance to enjoy a menu from James Beard Award-wining Chef Douglas Rodriguez, who, we later found out invented Nuevo Latino cuisine.

You'll find no shortage of excellent restaurants in Phoenix and Scottsdale. But if you plan on having one spectacular meal, make it Deseo. 

Andy is the president, publisher and founder of OnMilwaukee. He returned to Milwaukee in 1996 after living on the East Coast for nine years, where he wrote for The Dallas Morning News Washington Bureau and worked in the White House Office of Communications. He was also Associate Editor of The GW Hatchet, his college newspaper at The George Washington University.

Before launching OnMilwaukee.com in 1998 at age 23, he worked in public relations for two Milwaukee firms, most of the time daydreaming about starting his own publication.

Hobbies include running when he finds the time, fixing the rust on his '75 MGB, mowing the lawn at his cottage in the Northwoods, and making an annual pilgrimage to Phoenix for Brewers Spring Training.