October is the third annual Dining Month on OnMilwaukee.com. All month, we're stuffed with restaurant reviews, delicious features, chef profiles, unique articles on everything food, as well as the winners of our "Best of Dining 2009."
If a continuously packed parking lot doesn't give you a preemptive clue, El Fuego, 909 W. Layton Ave., is the most popular dining spot to rear its head on the street in decades, maybe ever.
The restaurant, whose name translates to "the fire," has lit a fire in the bellies of many South Side diners, creating an already loyal and large following from seemingly north, south, east and west of what was formerly the Prime Quarter Steakhouse; another novelty restaurant which allowed diners to grill their own steaks.
But El Fuego, which both of my dining companions described as Chi-Chi's-esque, succeeds in combining their extravagant, Mexican-themed décor with surprisingly great food.
We dodged the $5 "on tap" Cuervo margaritas, which were a little too much for me, and though it hurt our wallets a little more (with other call tequilas, expect to spend $8 or more on a single cocktail), the staff here is well-versed in its tequilas and recommended a Don Julio Reposado and a Milagro on separate visits with separate servers; both were good, although the margarita mix was a bit sweet for my taste.
The appetizers (antojitos) blew our expectations away. Guacamole ($6.95) was freshly muddled, and although it was a bit sweet, did a job well done with the margaritas and crisp salty chips. Pulpo Ceviche ($7.95) placed tender pieces of octopus with avocado, tomato, onion and cilantro and was light with the flavors of fresh lime juice. Be forewarned, portions at El Fuego are large and we were unable to finish the delivered appetizers on either visit.
Entrées dabble in the expected, with combination platters, tacos, burritos and enchiladas, and the not so expected, ranging from bistec Mexicana to burgers. Seafood is heavy on this menu, and items like fish enchiladas and tequila shrimp are generous both in serving size and with flavors.
Carne asada ($12.95), which too often arrives with an overdone and slightly tough skirt steak, arrives at El Fuego superbly cooked, and layered beneath a rainbow of sautéed, seasoned peppers for excellent results.
A combination plate of enchilada, taco and tostado with chicken ($10.95), came layered with queso fresco and a side of El Fuego's standout yellow rice with chunks of carrots and other vegetables. Refried beans here are a treat, and sour cream comes automatically with many of the dishes.
Fish enchiladas ($11.95) tuck seasoned tilapia into three corn tortillas and drizzle them with your choice of red or green sauce. The tilapia is flaky and light and the combination of the fish with the enchiladas makes them an interesting alternative to straight fish tacos (which also appear on El Fuego's menu).
Service at El Fuego is prompt, knowledgeable and one of the overall components that make dining here a joy. Water glasses and chip baskets never go unfilled and there is a general air of conviviality and genuine care for the level of service. It may not be the same as dining on 6th Street, but quite frankly, for certain types of occasions, El Fuego may just plain be better.
Amy L. Schubert is a 15-year veteran of the hospitality industry and has worked in every aspect of bar and restaurant operations. A graduate of Marquette University (B.A.-Writing Intensive English, 1997) and UW-Milwaukee (M.A.-Rhetoric, Composition, and Professional Writing, 2001), Amy still occasionally moonlights as a guest bartender and she mixes a mean martini.
The restaurant business seems to be in Amy’s blood, and she prides herself in researching and experimenting with culinary combinations and cooking techniques in her own kitchen as well as in friends’ restaurants. Both she and her husband, Scott, are avid cooks and “wine heads,” and love to entertain friends, family and neighbors as frequently as possible.
Amy and Scott live with their boys, Alex and Nick, in Bay View, where they are all very active in the community. Amy finds great pleasure in sharing her knowledge and passions for food and writing in her contributions to OnMilwaukee.com.
