By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Dec 29, 2000 at 6:37 AM

The Elm Grove Inn
13275 Watertown Plank Rd.
Elm Grove
(262) 789-8779
Mon. - Fri. 11:30 - 2 p.m. lunch
Dinner: Mon. - Sat. 5:00- 9:30


A slice of Wisconsin history and some great food served with a French accent can be found at the cozy Elm Grove Inn. Chef Nico Derni is the latest owner of this century old former stage coach stop, built alongside the historic Watertown Plank Rd. This charming chunk of early Americana has been a warm retreat on chilling cold Wisconsin nights since 1885. Inside a flickering fireplace, a welcoming bar and woodwork from skilled craftsmen transport you into a land that time forgot.

Nico is the only French born chef to hang his ladles in Milwaukee, and his menu reflects the years of classical training that allows the title of chef to come before his name. That technique and frame of mind translate to some interesting things on the plate. Grilled Maryland crab cakes and Roquefort onion tart are great starters to enjoy, while fresh hot-from-the-oven rolls are brought to the table. The symphony of seafood with Nantua and champagne sauces, Ballontine of chicken, quail and Margret of cuck, and the broiled veal chop with morels are all first rate choices. Make sure to save room for one of Nico’s wonderful soufflés.

It's a pleasant mix of the upscale North Shore and West Side crowd. People come here well-dressed and well-financed to enjoy some of the best food in town.

Moderate to expensive.

A vibrant bar with a lot of history offers a full range of alcoholic beverages.