Romance is an ingredient that has disappeared from the recipe for a successful 21st century restaurant.
Hype the noise. Hike the energy. Create a party for everyone.
That makes the new Kafe Kultura, which has been open for about two months, delightfully different. The restaurant is grown up without being stuffy. Its dining room, which seats about 50, reflects casual elegance in its clean, modern look.
Blue-gray walls set off black tables, chairs, banquettes and napkins. Table cloths are white, pillows are red, and each table is decorated with a red flower in a small vase. Latin music is played at a subdued level, and the lighting is discreet.
"I can bring a date here. I can bring my mom here for her birthday," owner Angel Velasquez recently said, explaining his concept for Kafe Kultura.
The restaurant has an adjoining connected lounge, and both rooms possess a vibe that is hip but not intimidating. You don't have to be cool to be there, but you will feel cool while in the environment.
It's a long way in style from the predictably Mexican Pedrano's, the previous occupant of the space at 600 S. 6th St.
Kafe Kultura's menu is distinctive for its variety and reasonable prices. Velasquez has traveled extensively throughout the Caribbean and Latin America, and his restaurant serves the dishes he found and liked while on the road.
Mangu from the Dominican Republic ($10.95) is beef tenderloin served with smashed green plantains and a chimichurri sauce. Casado ($12) is a typical Costa Rican meat stew with rice and black beans. Pastelon ($8.25) from Velasquez's native Puerto Rico consists of sweet plantains, ground beef, mozzarella cheese, green beans and rice.
Small plates include Colombian empanadas ($6.25), Peruvian ceviche with shrimp, cilantro, roasted corn, habanero peppers and aji amarillo sauce ($9), and sorrullitos ($4.25), Puerto Rican corn fritters stuffed with cheese.
A variety of Mexican tacos and enchiladas are also offered. The most expensive item on the menu is a whole fried fish served Caribbean style with sauteed spinach, coconut cashew rice, and an orange sauce. It is priced at $15.
"I want to eat this kind of food," Velasquez said. "I developed the menu, and this is what I wanted. I like to educate the people of Milwaukee about all of these different plates.
"There are a lot of Latinos in Milwaukee, and my menu represents that. A friend of mine from New York who is a chef helped me with it. I wanted it to be affordable."
Velasquez grew up in the historic and picturesque old part of San Juan before moving to Milwaukee with his mother in his early teenage years. He has spent time in New York and Chicago, but prefers living here.
"I like Milwaukee. It's a cool city," he said.
The Kafe Kultura owner emphasizes the versatility of his restaurant's kitchen, saying it will work around customers' dietary preferences. Want a vegetarian version of one of the dishes? No problem.
The lounge, which features deejays on some nights, specializes in Latin drinks – mojitos, margaritas, caipirinhas and pisco sours. Sangria comes in four varieties: mango, strawberry, pineapple and white. A broad selection of Mexican beers is offered.
Velasquez got his Milwaukee start in the food and drink business eight years ago with Lazaro's, a neighborhood Cuban restaurant he founded with Cuban-American partners at 5th and Lincoln. The business did not reopen after a fire, he said.
In addition to Kafe Kultura, he owns Kana Mojito Lounge at 201 W. Mitchell St., which has a limited food menu.
Here's a promise to help get us through the Wisconsin winter. "I have big plans for a Kafe Kultura patio next summer," Velasquez says.
Damien has been around so long, he was at Summerfest the night George Carlin was arrested for speaking the seven dirty words you can't say on TV. He was also at the Uptown Theatre the night Bruce Springsteen's first Milwaukee concert was interrupted for three hours by a bomb scare. Damien was reviewing the concert for the Milwaukee Journal. He wrote for the Journal and Journal Sentinel for 37 years, the last 29 as theater critic.
During those years, Damien served two terms on the board of the American Theatre Critics Association, a term on the board of the association's foundation, and he studied the Latinization of American culture in a University of Southern California fellowship program. Damien also hosted his own arts radio program, "Milwaukee Presents with Damien Jaques," on WHAD for eight years.
Travel, books and, not surprisingly, theater top the list of Damien's interests. A news junkie, he is particularly plugged into politics and international affairs, but he also closely follows the Brewers, Packers and Marquette baskeball. Damien lives downtown, within easy walking distance of most of the theaters he attends.