Five years ago, Manolo Ramirez moved to Milwaukee from Guanajuato, Mexico. Guanjuato is one of the states of the republic of Mexico, and located in the central part of the country.
Ramirez’s grandmother, with whom he was very close to, owned a small restaurant in Guanjuato, called Los Paisa. When Ramirez moved to Milwaukee -- his brother was already living here and operating a restaurant -- they opened the Milwaukee-based version of the restaurant on the North Side and used the same name and the same recipes as the Mexico-based eatery.
Los Paisa means, basically, a friend you grew up with. Ramirez points out it isn’t "correct" Spanish -- the plural article and the singular noun don’t match -- but it is what his grandmother called her restaurant and so he decided to keep the name as is.
"People always ask me to explain the name," says Ramirez, 37.
Los Paisa is located in building that is part restaurant, part bar (The Speakeasy is downstairs) and part living residence. Los Paisa’s portion of the building is small -- a mere nine tables -- but offers a spacious patio in the summer. There is also a small bar area to wait for a table. (And in the winter, you will wait.)
The decor is authentic and cozy, without a single sombrero or Mexican poncho hanging on the wall. Instead, the space is adorned with black-and-white photos of Ramirez’s family, paintings of Frida Kahlo and other art pieces created by local Mexican artists. The tabletops are covered in brightly colored Mexican oil cloths and there’s a kitschy fake fireplace that blazes all night long. Ramirez says he is still working on the aesthetic of the space and wants to include more information on the walls about Mexican history, including the Mexican revolution.
"I want people to know more about where I come from," says Ramirez. "My customers have been so nice, they have asked so many questions. I want to give them more information about Mexico, about Guanjuato."
The food is tasty and affordable. The meal begins with complementary chips and three bowls of dip, including refried beans and two salsas. The entrees range from $8-10. Margaritas are made from scratch with real lime juice.
On a recent visit, I had the cameron de la diabla, a spicy sauteed shrimp in a mole-like sauce on top of rice. It was definitely spicy, but I could have gone even hotter. The shrimp were tender and plentiful, and it came with flour or corn tortillas that were served warm and soft.
My dining companion had the chile rellenos, which he declared exceptional. The lightly breaded pepper provides enough flavor that the small amount of cheese used in the dish -- compared to other restaurant’s version -- is a welcomed and healthier change.
Another high point of the restaurants is the guacamole, which is mashed right at the table. Plus, the menu features familiar Mexican fare like burritos, fajitas, and enchiladas, and the fried ice cream dessert is on the list for next time.
"I want to give people a little taste of my food that I grew up with. Real Guanajuato food," says Ramirez. "A lot of Mexican restaurants on the South Side of Milwaukee are not the same, and sometimes people come here and they want to see the same food, but I explain to them, that where I come from, the food is a little different."
Some of the cuisine differences include the sauce recipes and the use of sauce in lieu of cheese on top of a burrito. The flautas are very different, too, with Los Paisa’s made from big flour tortillas and not deep fried.
"To me, the flautas in some restaurants here are taquitos, not flautas," he says. "My goal is to give my customers an authentic and affordable experience. And a little knowledge of my town and my grandmother who I loved very much."
Molly Snyder started writing and publishing her work at the age 10, when her community newspaper printed her poem, "The Unicorn.” Since then, she's expanded beyond the subject of mythical creatures and written in many different mediums but, nearest and dearest to her heart, thousands of articles for OnMilwaukee.
Molly is a regular contributor to FOX6 News and numerous radio stations as well as the co-host of "Dandelions: A Podcast For Women.” She's received five Milwaukee Press Club Awards, served as the Pfister Narrator and is the Wisconsin State Fair’s Celebrity Cream Puff Eating Champion of 2019.
