By Amy L. Carlson   Published Aug 12, 2004 at 5:33 AM Photography: Neil Kiekhofer of Front Room Photography

{image1} There are two different types of eating establishments in Milwaukee: restaurants with a bar, and bars that serve food. McBob's Pub and Grill, 4919 W. North Ave., is among the latter, but the sandwiches, salads, tacos and soups they turn out from their closet-sized kitchen rival some of the best casual restaurant fare in the city.

McBob's is no secret to neighborhood locals, food critics and the occasional transient east sider or suburbanite, but many people here in Brew City have never heard of the place.

The service at McBob's is informal, but excellent. The two bartenders work the bar and both the front and the much smaller back room. We were greeted immediately and had our drinks within a few seconds of sitting down. Our server/bartender, Jay, informed us that McBob's is now serving personal pizzas ($4.50-$6.50) on Monday and Wednesday, a recent addition to their already substantial menu. Jay also pointed out that McBob's now serves their Perch and Cod fish fry on Wednesday nights, as well as Fridays.

At a previous visit, we were thoroughly impressed with the pan-fried Perch ($9.50) and homemade potato pancakes. The fish was cooked perfectly under the crisp potato-crust that took the place of the traditional, heavier, breadcrumbs that many other restaurants use. The result is a fresh, flavorful and light fish fry that is among the best in town. The potato pancakes were wonderfully seasoned and almost airy, unlike many of the greasy versions I've had at other fish fries. McBob's also offers Walleye and Grouper (both $9.50) for a nice change of pace from the traditional Milwaukee cod fry.

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For this visit, I ordered the deluxe reuben sandwich ($7.50), which came with homemade American potatoes instead of the potato chips they serve with regular sandwich orders. All of McBob's food is served in green plastic baskets with paper lining -- not exactly chic dinnerware, but who can complain when the food is this good? We watched the cook expertly carve tender corned beef from the brisket for my sandwich, which was piled upon two slices of rye bread with the seasoned potatoes on the side. The combination of horseradish mustard, sauerkraut and Swiss cheese made for a fantastic rendition of a reuben without Thousand Island dressing.

Like McBob's fish fry, this menu item is the best in Milwaukee, by far. One of my dining companions tried a bowl of the homemade chili ($3.25), which had a wonderful mix of beans and ground beef but could have used more cumin. The barnyard chicken sandwich ($7.50) featured a tender chicken breast topped with bacon, ham, Swiss cheese, lettuce, tomato, mayonnaise and Cajun sauce. We also sampled the Philly cheese steak ($6.50), which, like all of our other entrees, was a fantastic amount of exceptional food for the price. We would've preferred authentic Philly cheese steak Cheez Whiz, but the thinly sliced beef with melted Swiss cheese was delicious, if not authentic.

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The bratwurst ($3.75) which came with raw onions, tomato, relish and kraut, was our only disappointment, since it arrived with the ends of the sausage overcooked and black.

Vegetarians have a limited selection here, but McBob's has recently added seven giant salads including the feta cheese and black olive salad ($5.50) to their existing meat lover's menu. This salad, in particular, includes an interesting homemade dressing -- Cusabi -- made with fresh wasabi (Japanese horseradish) and cucumbers.

McBob's also offers a grilled cheese sandwich ($3) to die for. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and Saturdays, vegetarians can opt for a vegetarian taco ($3.50) while their carnivorous friends choose from chicken ($3.50) or beef ($4) "Celtic" tacos. The Celtic taco is much more like a burrito that you have to eat with two hands because it is so stuffed with lettuce, tomatoes, sour cream and cheese. Although I'm quite certain it is artery-clogging, it makes my top 10 list of Milwaukee must-trys.

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If you're a breakfast person like me, try McBob's breakfasts, served Saturdays 8-11 a.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m.-2 p.m. The menu features three items, which all come with a choice of toast, English muffin or freshly made scones.

The scones are amazing, light and reason enough to get out of bed at 8 in the morning to get one fresh out of the oven. The McRobert's Plaid ($5.75) three eggs with sautéed peppers and onions, Swiss and American cheese with side of American fries and a choice of bacon or sausage, the Campbell scramble ($5.75) three eggs, sausage, American fries and onions and peppers topped with cheese, and the McGinnity ($5.75) three eggs over a bed of homemade corned beef hash.

And of course, McBob's has spicy, flavorful Bloody Mary's and a fantastic jukebox (everything from classic Celtic music to the Reverend Horton Heat) to start your day off right.

Food is served 11 a.m.-midnight, seven days a week. Smoking is permitted. They take reservations and do catering. All major credit cards are accepted.