By Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor Published Oct 12, 2024 at 10:02 AM Photography: Lori Fredrich

Looking for new spots to try? Lori Fredrich is dishing out must-tries in 20 different dining categories, from brunch to BBQ and everything in between. Here's what she's recommended so far!

The fare of Latin America – a term that spans an impressive 31 nations – is so varied that one could spend a lifetime exploring its diversity. Even Mexican fare, a cuisine with which most Americans are at least marginally familiar, offers a wide range of regional cuisines that extend far beyond what is showcased in local restaurants. But the Latin American canon in Milwaukee is growing, making it a cuisine that's as fun to explore as it is delicious to eat.

In honor of National Hispanic Heritage Month, here are five venues worthy of exploration (feel free to venture beyond my recommendations). Because it's good to support all types of restaurants, this list includes a mix of long-held staples as well as one or two that are newer to the scene.

Al Pastor

Alambre
Alambre
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6533 W. Mitchell St., West Allis,  (414) 885-0756
al-pastor.com

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For a long time, Al Pastor was a tiny restaurant which served an impressively large menu.  These days, their restaurant space is larger and they have a full bar, so you can enjoy palomas, margaritas and other cocktails. Meanwhile, their menu is filled with delicious items like birria (the traditional stew), marinated steak in chile de arbol sauce (delightfully spicy) and staples like tacos.

Don't miss their alambre, a meat-filled platter of steak, bacon, ham, chorizo, grilled veggies, and pineapple topped with melted Oaxaca cheese served with a side of warm tortillas. It's delicious.

Antigua Latin Inspired Kitchen

Chile en nogada
Chile en Nogada
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6207 W. National Ave, West Allis, (414) 321-5775
antiguamilwaukee.com
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Chef Nicolas Ramos and Citlali Mendieta-Ramos have been showcasing regional Mexican and Latin-American fare in the Milwaukee area since 2006 (that's before we had such a wealth of representation from Latin American countries).

I thought now was a good time to remind you to revisit their delicious dishes, which range from Argentinian and Colombian empanadas to Valencia-style paella and Enchiladas Yucatecas showcasing tender braised pork in creamy yellow bell pepper and habanero sauce. And if you're seeking out vegetarian dishes, you'll find those as well, including tasty roasted cauliflower tacos.

Don't overlook Mexican specialties like Chile en Nogada, a braised poblano pepper filled with a mix of pork, aromatics, dry fruits and mixed nuts, covered in a creamy fresco cheese and walnut nogada sauce and topped with pomegranate seeds. It's as flavorful as it is beautiful.

El Salvador

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2316 S. 6th St., (414) 645-1768
elsalvadorrestaurants.com
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When we talk about long-time staples, El Salvador is the OG among just a few places that represent Salvadoran fare. 

And if there's one dish you should try while you're there it's pupusas. Similar to Venezuelan arepas or Mexican gorditas, pupusas begin with masa that’s been hand-patted around any number of savory fillings and griddled until crisp, speckled with brown and oozing salty melting cheese.

Fillings include queso (cheese), frijoles (beans), chicharron (pork), loroco (vegetable), calabaza (zucchini), pollo (chicken), asada (steak) or revueltas (cheese, pork, beans).  If you're up for something different, I’d recommend trying the loroco, small green unopened flower buds that come from a plant native to Central America. The buds are tender, vegetal and somewhat nutty, and they provide a nice contrast to the gooey cheese.

If you like, sample the pupusa plain – but be sure to try it the more traditional way, topped with salsa (don’t worry, it’s more tomato-y than spicy) and a scoop of cortida, a salty, pickled cabbage slaw that both lightens the dish and offers brightness and tang. Also, these are street food fare, so it’s only right to forego the utensils and eat them with your hands.

El Tlaxcalteca

El TlaxcaltecaX

1300 W. Burnham St., (414) 312-8436
facebook.com/El-Tlaxcalteca-Restaurant

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My first visits to El Tlaxcalteca took place in early 2019, just a few months after the restaurant opened. The menu was filled with regional specialties, some from Tlaxcalteca; and there are riches to be found in their selection of daily specials, which has included items like huaraches, tortitas de pollo (chicken croquettes) served with egg;  pozole, albondigas and pipian rojo with pork.

Other highlights include birria de res (the traditional stew), plus a laundry list of dishes made with the stewed meat: quesabirrias, vampiros, burritos, quesadillas and more.

Don't miss the machete, a masterpiece made with fresh masa that's pressed into a large oval shape on a flat-top grill and filled with guests’ choice of meats (birria, chorizo, asada, barbacoa, carnitas, and more) plus loads of delicious Mexican melting cheese. The three-foot-long, three-pound creation would easily feed four (and it's delicious).

Travieso

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@ The Clark Hotel
314 W. Main St., Waukesha, (262) 899-2520
traviesolatinfusion.com

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Delightfully unexpected. Those are the first words that come to mind for me when I think about Travieso, a restaurant that weaves the flavors of Latin America into a slate of largely familiar dishes.

Humble vegetables like Brussels sprouts stand out when fried until crisp and paired with chorizo garlic aioli.  Caesar salad takes on a new thrill when dressed with poblano and lime infused dressing. And beef tenderloin shines when beautifully cooked, topped with chorizo bearnaise and served alongside scallops on a bed of vanilla buerre blanc.  Fridays bring a fish fry featuring panko-crusted fried walleye served with a potato pancake, cilantro jalapeño slaw, cheddar biscuit and house tartar sauce. 

Those are the types of dishes you'll find at Travieso, which has transformed the formerly dark Irish Pub at the Clarke Hotel into a modern destination that offers guests an opportunity to adventure beyond the ordinary.

Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor

As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.

Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.

When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.