Things seemed ominous as we drove around for 20 minutes searching for a parking spot during a Saturday game night downtown. Finally, we found a space a few blocks away from our destination -- Pacific Rim, in the former Toy's Chinatown Restaurant, an oasis from the chill -- and our mood began to change.

We were greeted cheerily by a hostess in a large foyer and bar. Overhead, a Chinese-style gilded ceiling added a nice touch of traditional to the sleek, dark marble bar lit by swanky blue lights.

We were seated immediately, even though the main dining room was full and the kitchen obviously busy. The main room was large with white linen clad tables, candles shedding warm light and an exposed theatre-style kitchen facing the room's diners. A built-in fountain pointed to the theme of the restaurant's cuisine, all things Pacific. The rest of the décor in the dining rooms was unimpressive, more in line with the look of a hotel conference room.

We were seated in a second, smaller dining room at a table pleasantly outfitted with origami folded white napkins, a candle and both water and wine glasses at each setting. Our server came shortly after and we ordered a 2001 Louis Felipe Edwards Merlot from Chile ($17), a light and tasty red with just a hint of spice.

The menu at Pacific Rim, served a la carte, is diverse, and while a theme of sweet and spicy runs throughout, it would be difficult for anyone to not find something they would like. From starter to soup, salad, entrée and dessert the menu caters to vegetarian, beef-, chicken- and seafood-lover alike, mixing elements of Hawaiian, Asian and Indonesian cuisine.

We started with the salmon rolls and fruit rolls ($7.95), one roll containing salmon with sharp cheddar, cilantro, scallions and sesame seeds, and the other with fresh fruit and cream cheese, both lightly deep-fried. The strawberry and kiwi were a sweet compliment to the cheesy salmon, however a light sauce drizzled atop would have added some needed moisture. Also recommended as a starter were the beef grapes ($7.95), thinly sliced grilled beef tenderloin wrapped around grapes and topped with a garlic lime juice dressing.

There are several soups on the menu with an Asian-Pacific flare including seafood creamy coconut soup ($7.95) and South Pacific squash chowder soup ($5). Salads on the menu could serve as either a second course or as a light meal. For something light, one could try the walnut salad ($7.95) served with mixed baby greens, roasted walnuts, blue cheese, pears and balsamic vinaigrette or the arugula salad ($7.95) with goat cheese, black olives, sun dried tomatoes and roasted red pepper in herb mustard vinaigrette dressing served with an aged balsamic vinegar. The seared tuna and crispy squid salad ($9.95) and barbecue chicken with papaya salad ($9.95) both seem like they could be meals in themselves.

The main courses on the menu range in price from $14.95 to $35 and include vegetarian, duck, chicken, beef, fish and seafood. I chose the sweet chili grilled shrimp ($22.95) and my companion decided on the seafood basil noodles ($18.95). The decision came after deep contemplation over the equally delicious sounding tamarind duck ($18.95), served with baby bok choy, spinach, kiwi, lychee fruit and a orange tamarind sauce, and the pine cone halibut ($19.95) lightly battered, deep fried and served with home fried new potatoes and sweet and sour sauce.

The Pacific Rim bouillabaisse ($35) sounded downright regal as a Southeast Asian version of a French seafood stew with shrimp, scallops, king crab, mussels, clams and lobster tail simmered in a seafood stock infused with lemon grass and lime leaves.

Our entrees arrived in a timely fashion, both with in ample portions and beautifully presented. The puddle of creamy coconut and sweet chili sauce with scallions served in the center of my plate was delectable with the five jumbo grilled shrimp surrounding it. A scoop of Japanese sweet rice balanced the shrimp and sauce.

My companion's dish had a lot of seafood including jumbo shrimp, scallops, squid, mussels and cod. The seafood was served atop pan-seared fresh rice noodles. The flavors of basil and garlic in the sauce were a bit overpowered by its spiciness. The seafood, however, was perfectly cooked, tender and moist.

Our server returned several times throughout the meal and our water glasses were kept full by other members of the waitstaff. Our lavish meal was so hearty we were unable to even consider dessert, but the green tea or coconut ice cream ($3.95) and ginger brownie a la mode ($4.95) made us sorry we were so full.

Pacific Rim is located at 830 N. Old World Third St and is owned by Anant "Bob" Phoungphol, who also runs the King & I and Bangkok House restaurants. The restaurant serves an affordable lunch Monday through Friday, 11:30 a.m. through 2:30 p.m. We learned after our meal that the parking lot adjacent to the restaurant is available to patrons. You must prepay and then will be reimbursed upon validation. For more information or reservations, you can call Pacific Rim at (414) 277-8100.