By David Hansen   Published Oct 08, 2001 at 4:59 AM

One of the more unique beers available in Milwaukee is the hard-to-find Pripp's 1828, an excellent lager from Sweden (a country really not noted for its brewing tradition). The color of Pripp's is probably one of its most distinctive characteristics. It's a light amber in color, but it is slightly deeper, very unique and absolutely gorgeous in a fine crystal glass.

The taste is something special, too: smooth and full-bodied in mouth feel, but not overly heavy. This beer has extraordinary hop dryness to complement the rich body. As it pours to a nice soft head, it has average carbonation. The label says it is produced with four malts, including a light colored Pilsner malt, and slightly roasted Munich malt, which produces the rich body. They also use a darker Caramel malt, which gives it its pleasant roasted taste. But I would think it's the black malt that really makes the difference in this beer and gives it a distinguishing complexity.

There are a lot of good full-bodied beers out there but it's the hops that truly lets them stand apart, as is the case with Pripp's, which uses a combination of Hallertau and Saaz hops. Pripp's 1828 has not only more hop bitterness than ordinary lagers, but it has a very distinctive hop-y aroma. It's the balance of these hops and the fuller-bodied malt character which make it one of the finest beers available.

Pripp's 1828 is brewed in Goteborg, Sweden by the Ab Pripp's Bryggerier, using, since 1692, natural spring water from it's own source in Kalleback . The award-winning Carneie Porter is another fine beer from this brewery.

The pentagon on the label of 1828 is a true sign of Pripp's old brewing traditions. It was first used in 1865 as a Pripp's brand label which was burnt into the natural corks used back then to seal the bottles.

Pripp's 1828 is 5.0% alcohol by volume, and is only available in 11.2-oz. Bottles. The sampled bottle cost $2.49. One final note, the sample bottle had a best used date of April 2001, a little old to be sure, but I think this is one of those rare brews which can get better with age. It's in a class by itself.

Next month we're headed for Scotland in search of Fraoch, till then — Skol.