First impressions matter, especially when it comes to dining. So, here's a first-hand look at one of the newest restaurants on the block, through the eyes of an average restaurant-goer.
Revolucion doesn't exactly stand out in the crowd, located on the quiet end of the Point Loomis Shopping Center parking lot, adjacent to Anna's Linens, Office Max and Michaels. But don't be dissuaded by the humble exterior of the restaurant, which previously housed a Dairy Queen. Revolucion is definitely more than a fast food joint.
Upon entering, patrons get a fairly clear view of the restaurant's kitchen, which appeared busy but clean on our initial visit. Our host led us around a sharp corner, and into the dining area, which, although small, sported two rows of tables dressed with burgundy tablecloths and decorated molcajetes (mortar bowls made from volcanic rock) settled against orange-hued walls finished in the style of Spanish plaster.
The hallmark of most good Mexican restaurants is the guacamole. So, when we were offered the choice of a made-to-order bowl of their house guacamole (mild, medium or hot for $5.99), we couldn't resist. Although our "hot" guacamole was only mildly spicy, its flavor was fresh and chunky with the perfect hint of fresh lime juice. Visible in the freshly pounded guacamole were bits of cilantro, peppers and tomato which enhanced the rich flavor of the avocado.
The house salsa was thin, but richly flavored with three types of chiles. Sweet and smoky, the salsa made a great foil for the rich guacamole, and was delicious with the accompanying thick but crisp tortilla chips.
Revolucion's relatively diverse menu includes a variety of both carnivorous and vegetarian options, including an intriguing array of enchiladas, burritos and street tacos. Gluten-free options are also available upon request.
Our server, Priscilla, was attentive and pleasant. Although she admitted that she hadn't tried a wide variety of items on the menu, she was helpful in directing us toward recent patrons' favorite dishes, which included the fajitas de mocajete ($11.99-$24.99), barbacoa enchilada ($9.99) and the alambres de carne ($9.99).
In lieu of margaritas, which won't be available until the restaurant obtains its liquor license in 4-5 weeks, Priscilla also pointed us toward Revolucion's house made horchata ($1.50), which was pleasantly sweet but not cloying, with the slightest hint of Mexican cinnamon.
When it came time to order our main dishes, my dining companion opted for chicken fajitas de molcajete ($11.99) were served with a side of Spanish rice and refried beans (either pinto or black), lettuce, pico de gallo, sour cream and a choice of flour or corn tortillas.
The fajita filling (which included a generous amount of braised chicken breast, roasted poblano peppers, grilled scallions, red peppers and asadero cheese braised in a rich smoky salsa made from pasilla, ancho and morita chiles) was served in a heated molcajete, which assisted in reducing the flavorful sauce and keeping the ingredients steaming hot for the duration of our meal.
Although pieces of the chicken which weren't covered in sauce seemed marginally overcooked, the dish on the whole was generously portioned and superbly flavored by the rich flavor of sweet smoky chiles. The rice was average at best, but the refried beans (both the black and pinto) were well seasoned and had a pleasantly smooth-but-beany texture.
I chose to try the cochinita pibil, a traditional Yucatan dish, customarily made from suckling pig, flavored with Seville oranges and anchiote, wrapped in banana leaves and slow roasted in an underground fire pit. Revolucion's version ($12.99) was comprised of tender roasted pork shoulder, marinated with citrus and achiote paste and served atop banana leaves with pickled red onions, wilted spinach and a bounty of shoestring potatoes.
The dish was beautifully presented, and the components complemented one another quite strikingly, with the subtly pickled onions cutting the richness of the pork, and the spinach soaking up a pleasant bit of the pork juices that settled to the bottom of the bowl.
Both of us enjoyed our dinner and were pleased to pack up leftovers from both of our meals to eat for lunch the next day.
I'd definitely welcome a return visit to try out one or more of Revolucion's seafood dishes, which include Pescado, ancho-marinated tilapia tacos ($8.99); Atun, seared yellowfin tuna tacos with mole poblano and pineapple mango salsita ($11.99); and Salmon Rustico, pan-roasted salmon with caramelized plantains, fried spinach and pineapple chipotle salsa ($14.99).
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
