By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published Jun 21, 2001 at 4:03 AM

Sammy's Taste of Chicago
5400 N. Lovers Lane Rd.
(414) 462-0414
10534 W. Greenfield Ave.
(414) 774-0390
Open daily
Prices: Cheap

While the brute strength and finesse of the Big Dog brought them to their feet at the Bradley Center this year, the big dogs at Sammy's Taste of Chicago bring them to their seats, all munching in concert to the joys of the all- American Meal.

Chicago-style hot dogs are the attraction here, and the long lines outside the door attest to the ever-growing love affair for this burn-of-the-heart sausage that would be king.

Make no mistake, healthy it's not, and a momentary lapse of reason is keeping the kitchen working at warp speed. The Jumbo Chicago Dog starts with a steaming hot poppy seed bun filled with an all-beef Vienna wiener that's slathered with yellow mustard, then topped with neon green pickle relish, chopped onions, pickle slices, fresh tomato and a pair of nasty little sport peppers. It's all guaranteed to fall on your hands, arms and pants on the way to your mouth.

But there is more than one way to skin a dog here at Sammy's. Chili, cheese, kraut and even a corndog for the kids can be built to your specifications at your command.

Make sure to wrap your hands around one of the Italian beef sandwiches, a huge mountain of juicy roast beef topped with mozzarella cheese and enough hot giardiniera to spice things up.

Sundays are the days to load up as a variety of Sammy's dogs can be had for 99 cents.

Simply put Sammy's is one of the best cheap eats in the city.