By Michael Tomich   Published Jan 30, 2002 at 6:56 AM

OK, we've all heard the hackneyed whining that Milwaukee doesn't have enough upscale clubs and restaurants. Swank, 628 N. Water St., will help the city say "so long" to that false perception and stereotype.

Located in a storefront that formerly housed H.H. West office supply, Swank offers a cosmopolitan flavor balanced with a respect for Milwaukee-level prices. Warm birch woodwork punctuated with metallic accents, 16-ft. ceilings and artwork create a soothing, yet urban, atmosphere, that General Manager/Co-Owner Shannon D. Brown calls "Tropical."

That atmosphere can be enjoyed at tall bistro tables, in the elevated lounge where couches and casual comfort chairs are sprinkled around coffee tables or at low-level tables perfect for groups of four. The bar is unique with a blue-tiled top and water spilling over a metallic back-bar fountain display.

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"It's all about the ambience" says co-owner Trevor Trimble. "But we're upscale while being cost conscious."

Oakland A's DH/outfielder David Justice (whose ex-wife Halle Berry maintains an apartment in the nearby Third Ward with her Milwaukee hubby Eric Benet) was among the pretty faces at the Swank private grand opening Monday night. Justice is a long-time friend of one of Swank's owners.

Relaxing to the live jazz sounds of the Manty Ellis Trio in an elevated lounge, Justice, along with his wife and son, gave a rave review of the posh eats, which include Mediterranean appetizers like Sesame Crusted Scallops and Crab Cakes.

"They've got a good thing starting here. If I were to close my eyes and feel the ambience," says Justice, "I would think I was in New York. I was pleasantly surprised."

The formula has also struck a chord with some Milwaukeeans, it seems.

"This is something the city needed," said Marvin Prioeaux, 57, cupping a glass of cognac.

Valet parking is offered and dress is formal to casual. Hours: Sunday 5 p.m.-midnight; Monday-Friday 11 a.m.-1 a.m.; Saturday 5 p.m.-1 a.m. For more information call 27-SWANK (277-9625).