By OnMilwaukee Staff Writers   Published May 12, 2003 at 5:42 AM

When Kenosha natives Brian and Mari Zarletti bought the building to house their flower/coffee shop in South Milwaukee, it was happenstance.

"We just didn't know anything about the East Side or Downtown," says Brian Zarletti. Eight years later, with a large and loyal customer base, Zarletti says he's glad they made that decision.

With Italian blood and a passion for cuisine, the Zarlettis decided it was time to open their newest venture in October, a paninoteca called Café Zarletti. And there was no better place than right next door.

Zarletti admits it was a risk, musing that conventional thinking would have sent him north. But with roots set in their community, Zarletti says it was time to fill a void in their own market.

"It was something the area desperately needed," says Zarletti. "...This is sort of a forgotten part of town."

The response, Zarletti says, has "well surpassed" his expectations. "We have people coming from all over the Milwaukee metro area," he says.

So what is a paninoteca exactly? A close Italian translation is 'sandwich shop.' But Zarletti prefers to use 'sandwich boutique.'

"A paninoteca is kind of like café here," says Zarletti. "I mean, we sell paninis, but it's like an everyday word for them. A place where you can order your food at the bar, have a glass of wine and relax."

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Semantics aside, at this casual and refreshingly innovative eatery you can order at the counter and have some delicious and healthy food delivered right your table. Zarletti says the counter service brought down prices and helps to maintain the casual, fun and hip atmosphere he wanted to create.

Adding to the chic ambience is the building space itself, converted from a turn of the century hardware store. Zarletti says the showpiece of the building is not the maple floors or exposed brick walls, but the ornate, pressed-tin that covers the 13-ft. ceiling. "I painstakingly restored it myself," says Zarletti.

If you want to stick with the café's name, try one of their signature hot and crispy paninis like the Del Boscaiolo with mushroom, ham, artichoke, sage and provolone or the simply elegant Parma with prosciutto, arugula and provolone (all panini are $6.95).

The café also serves daily special pastas, soups and salads. For those just coming to sip some wine, try nibbling on the Scarpetta ($3.95), a warm bread with sauce for dipping, or an antipasto ($6.95) dish with assorted meats, cheeses, marinated vegetables and crusty Italian bread.

A Sunday brunch with such simple delicacies as fresh squeezed orange juice, frittate, breakfast panini (of course), and French toast bread pudding is served weekly from 8 a.m. until 1 p.m. During warm weather there will be tables outside for dining al fresco.

Zarletti is open Tuesday through Thursday from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m., Friday and Saturday from 9 a.m to 9 p.m. and Sundays from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m. It's located at 1021 Milwaukee Ave., in South Milwaukee. For more information call (414) 856-9090.