The jury is still out on NaNa Asian Fusion and Sushi Bar

First impressions matter, especially when it comes to dining. So, here's a first-hand look at one of the newest restaurants on the block, through the eyes of an average restaurant-goer.

I am of two minds about "fusion" cuisine. On one hand, when done well, I think there is an inherent brilliance in melding cultures, techniques and ingredients to produce something fresh and new. On the other, "fusion" can also result in an imaginative hodge-podge that leaves the diner wondering what just happened. In the case of NaNa Asian Fusion and Sushi Bar, 4511 N. Oakland Ave., I'm afraid the jury is still out.

With a clean modern interior, a flashy back-lit bar and a well-stocked sushi bar, NaNa, which opened Nov. 23, projects a pleasantly upscale image appropriate to its location in the heart of Shorewood.

NaNa's large menu features an interesting selection of sushi, Chinese, Japanese and Thai dishes including a large selection of sushi, sashimi and hand rolls, classic dishes like General Tso's Chicken ($13), Lo Mein ($8.50) and teriyaki chicken ($13), and a series of more inventive entrees like Honey Walnut Crispy Chicken and Shrimp ($18), Duck Fajitas Asian Style ($19) and a variety of specialty sushi rolls, including the Lonely Angel ($16) featuring blackened tuna, fried asparagus, tuna, salmon, yellowtail, eel and four kinds of tobiko served with chef's special sauce.

In consideration of the breadth of the menu alone, I visited NaNa for the first time with three others and together we sampled a selection of starters, entrees and sushi. We started our meal with an order of Bamboo Steamed Edamame with Hawaiian sea salt ($5), which we nibbled as we perused the menu. Simply presented on a white plate, the soy beans were flavorful but slightly over-cooked, which detracted from the beans' normally fresh flavor.

Two of my companions opted for soup as a starter course, ordering a bowl of the Egg Drop Soup ($2) and a bowl of Miso Soup ($2). Both soups were heartily portioned and served hot. The miso soup was quite traditional and contained pieces of kombu and small pieces of tofu. The egg drop soup, on the other hand, was deliciously inventive and contained whole pieces of corn as well as what seemed to be a corn-infused stock. Though unexpected, everyone agreed that the soup was delicious. We also eagerly sampled the Crab Rangoon (four pieces for $4), which was crisp and not at all greasy, with a pleasantly sweet crab and cream cheese filling and a small bowl of traditional sweet and sour sauce.

One of my companions ordered a few traditional sushi rolls as his entree, including the spicy tuna ($5.50), salmon avocado ($5) and Crunchy Spicy Salmon ($5). Though not remarkable, the sushi was well formed and attractive. Unfortunately, the salmon with avocado was creamy, but lackluster, and the spicy tuna lacked vigor.

Another diner ordered the Lonely Angel Roll ($16) which was beautifully presented on a plate drizzled with two sauces – one redolent with wasabi, and the other a sweeter soy-based syrup. Although impressive, the angel roll seemed almost too much of a good thing, with the primary feedback indicating that it was difficult to distinguish between the flavors in the roll since there was "a lot going on."

Two of us ordered more traditional fare – Black Bean Sauce with tofu ($11) and Japanese Eggplant Garlic Sauce with tofu ($14). Both dishes were beautifully presented and featured a wide variety of vegetables and plenty of firm slices of tofu. However, the eggplant garlic sauce, which was billed as "spicy" on the menu, was distinctively tame, and the black bean sauce was surprisingly without much flavor, though visible pieces of fermented black beans were evident in the sauce.

Service was a bit slow, but fair, with at least three wait staff attending to our table throughout the evening. All of the staff we dealt with were friendly and pleasant, and we were comfortable lingering for a bit after our meal to visit and relax.

Unfortunately, this first dining experience was disappointingly lackluster. While there were no major disappointments, there was also nothing that truly impressed. As a brand new restaurant, we'll give NaNa another chance to win us over; but we'll let them get their sea legs before we return.

That said, I'd love to get your take on this new restaurant. NaNa's official grand opening will take place Dec. 7, when guests will be able to sample a full range of menu selections for 10 percent off.

Give them a visit and let me know what you think.