Every dish has a story. In this series, we sit down and chat with chefs around the city (and beyond) about the experiences they hope to create for their guests. As part of our discussion, they also recommend three delicious dishes that embody the heart and soul of the restaurant.
Ash Hearth & Bar
500 W. Florida St., (414) 374-4766
theironhorsehotel.com
Reservations are highly recommended
After an extended hiatus, Ash Hearth and Bar will re-open its doors to the public on Thursday, Oct. 3 at 5 p.m. with two new chefs at the helm: Executive Chef Franklin Perdue and Chef de Cuisine Eric Zangara.
Perdue’s career has included posts at Boleo, the Peruvian-themed rooftop restaurant at the Kimpton Gray Hotel in Chicago, as well as Riverbend in Kohler where he created innovative menu specials and dining experiences for hundreds of guests. He is fearlessly experimental in the kitchen, always exploring avenues like fermentation and sustainability.
Zangara’s career began in Chicago where he was part of the opening team and held posts at numerous notable restaurants including Beacon Tavern. He is passionate about sourcing seasonal ingredients and constantly pushes himself to hone his craft and techniques.
Both share a passion for the hearth-based cooking implemented at Ash. Not only is it an ancient, communal cooking tradition that creates an intimate atmosphere for guests but – when used skillfully – it can be used to suss out the hidden flavors in both proteins and vegetables.
“Delving into an ancient cooking technique really hits a note for diners,” says Franklin. “And we’re always constantly learning and researching. We’ve been really inspired by Scandinavian open-hearth cooking, and that goes hand in hand with the roles that our farmers play in the restaurant. We exclusively use locally grown produce; it’s our way of stimulating the local economy and supporting local.”
In addition to using fresh produce from farms including Baby Mama Botanicals, Farm Happy and Hundred Acre, Franklin and Zangara practice preserving and fermenting to preserve the harvest.
“We use hay from Farm Happy to smoke our bone marrow and color our pasta with ash,” Franklin explains. “Very little goes to waste. For the hotel’s anniversary in September, we brought in a 130-pound yellowfin tuna to serve at the raw bar. Its remains are being transformed into garum, an umami-rich condiment somewhat like fish sauce.”
Perdue says the chefs have also been working on bread made with ancient einkhorn wheat flour and Iron Horse Owner, Tim Dixon, has found them a source for olive-fed wagyu beef, which they will be dry aging moving forward.
“He is huge advocate for organic and heritage ingredients,” Franklin says, noting that it allows them to think outside of the box when it comes to the menu at Ash.
The chefs also pay attention to the experience they're delivering to guests, from the look and feel of food on the plate, to the plate itself which has probably been handmade for them by the potters at Carra Terra.
“If I had to describe what we do in a sentence, I’d call it beautiful rustic fine dining,” says Zangara. “It’s approachable, but elevated and with an emphasis on local.”
Wagyu Beef Tartare
Olive-fed wagyu, smoked yolk, soubise, dijon, alliums, cornichon, charcoal oil, pickled mustard seeds, rye crisp ($38).
“I love beef tartare, but the goal is always to make it different than anywhere else,” says Zangara, noting that the dish begins with hand-minced olive-fed wagyu beef. “We start by smoking our egg yolks. We smoke our butter with hay and use the remnants from the hearth to make charcoal oil.
“We also add onion soubise to give it a light, creamy element. And, instead of just serving sourdough bread, we’ve made rye crisps which really match the tartar in its flavor. In the end, its about using the highest quality ingredients that we can source and then using them in ways that they really complement the meat.”
Butterflied Branzino
Jalapeno dressing, garlic, ember-roasted squash, caper vinaigrette, garden herbs ($42).
“Integrating sustainable fish into the menu is important to us,” says Perdue. “Branzino falls into that category. But we also considered how to make a knock-out fish using the fish cage on the hearth. We butterfly to allow it to cook more evenly and ensure it gets a crisp crust. Then, we use the birchwood to cook it.”
“The zucchini are from Baby Mama Botanicals,” he says. “And we char the jalapenos to make the dressing. The charred skin gives them a bit of sweetness, but they also impart a bit of heat. The dressing is bright and it tastes great with everything on the plate.”
Pro tip: Be sure to eat the Branzino cheeks!
Doughnuts
Galub jamun, pistachio, whipped salted caramel, rose syrup ($12)
“I was inspired by gulab jamun,” says Zangara. “I had them for the first time earlier this year and they were amazing. So as we were considering items to put on the dessert menu, I really wanted to do my own take on them.
“I made no less than seven or eight recipe iterations, plus weeks of trial and error. I was going for something that was a bit crisp on the exterior and tender inside, but that would absorb the syrup quickly without collapsing. I used some of the traditional methods to make them, but also added my own spin: the whipped salted caramel, which adds a savory element.
“We have a cook who is here on a work visa from India. And he served as a taste tester for me. I had played with the recipe, so it was inspired by galub jamun, but not the original. So, he was a great resource along the way.”
Beginning Oct. 3, Ash Hearth & Bar will be open Thursday through Saturday from 5 to 10 p.m.
As a passionate champion of the local dining scene, Lori has reimagined the restaurant critic's role into that of a trusted dining concierge, guiding food lovers to delightful culinary discoveries and memorable experiences.
Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with every dish. Lori is the author of two books: the "Wisconsin Field to Fork" cookbook and "Milwaukee Food". Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. In 2024, Lori was honored with a "Top 20 Women in Hospitality to Watch" award by the Wisconsin Restaurant Association.
When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or planning for TV and radio spots, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.
