El Rey Sol
2338 W. Forest Home Ave.
(414) 389-1760
Cozy and bright. This former corner tap has a warm and friendly bar and two small dining rooms with a décor that pays homage to both modern and ancient Mexico, as well as our city of Milwaukee. It is apparent that the Mendieta family is proud of their heritage and their home.
El Rey Sol has a menu like no other in town, with an abundance of regional specialties, flavors from Argentina and a number of great steaks that come from the mesquite grill. The complimentary appetizer platter indicates that these people know what they are doing. Molotitos de Oaxaca, Empanadas Michocanas, Ceviche de Pescado and Gorditas de Frijoles is a tasty starter that gives early indication of the scope of the tiny kitchen.
Entrée choices are also impressive. Yucatan style pork, chicken enchiladas with avocado and almond sauce, fresh fish in lime sauce, lobster in wine and butter, and a variety of steaks are all served with a smile. We sampled the Churrasco Agentino, a plate-sized char-grilled sirloin flavored with a rich Chimichurri, pesto-like sauce made with basil, olive oil onions and pepper. Those seeking a Spanish influence will want to stop by on Fridays and Saturdays when Pepe has the Paella pans working at warp speed, slowly simmering the traditional saffron infused rice casserole. The menu offers enough variety to keep us coming back for more.
While the explosion of Mexican restaurants throughout the area attests to the city's ongoing love affair for the spicy south-of-the-border cuisine, the reality is that most of the Mexican restaurants sprinkled through the landscape do little to stray from the safe menu that has filled their restaurants.
The end result is an abundance of rather mundane and simply ordinary food. There are a few Milwaukee restaurants, however, that travel where few have gone before and stretch the culinary envelope.
Taqueria Azteca, Jalapeno Loco, Botana's and Cempazuchi have dared to come up with something a little different. We can now add El Rey Sol to that list.
Owned and operated by Chef Jose (Pepe) Mendieta and his daughter, Citlali, this gem of a white tablecloth restaurant has quietly established itself as one of the best Mexican restaurants in town with its gourmet and regional approach.
Moderate.
A full bar, Margaritas aplenty and a nice assortment of Mexican Beer.
