By Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host Published Jul 23, 2021 at 11:01 AM Photography: Lori Fredrich

Brunch has become a ubiquitous part of weekend life in Milwaukee and it seems everyone has a favorite spot to indulge. But if you’re looking to try something new, this series is for you. We’ll be highlighting a new brunch spot every week and bringing you all the tasty details. Click here to check out all the spots we've tried

2457 S. Wentworth Ave., (414) 763-4706

Brunch available: Sunday from 10 a.m. to 2 p.m.
Reservations are recommended

If I’m honest, I’ll admit to having a love-hate relationship with summer. I’m more than content with breezy warm days; but I tend to wither when the mercury rises above 85 degrees, especially when it comes with a healthy blast of humidity. And yet, because summer is short here in the Midwest, I make it a point to embrace (and appreciate) even those sweaty, still days.

Goodkind patioX

I spent one recently enjoying brunch on the sun-drenched patio at Goodkind, which boasts a southern exposure that guarantees not only a hefty dose of vitamin D, but the sort of lazy, fun-in-the-sun sort of brunch for which the dog days are made.

Despite the sheer size of the drink menu (it rivals the size of the brunch menu itself), we settled in quickly on the house bloody mary, served up with a chaser of Miller Lite (pictured, $9). It’s fresh and balanced, with a hint of spice, making it a reasonable summer pick.

Brunch drinks at GoodkindX

I also toyed with the idea of their  peach-carrot bellini ($9), but ultimately settled on one of my favorite summer picks, the Good Morning, Americano! Featuring Campari and Carpano Antica sweet vermouth served up in an ice cold Topo Chico (pictured, $9) alongside a Valentine nitro cold brew (pictured, $6). 

Our glasses wept with condensation as we dug into brunch dishes that – while not summery, per se – ended up to be the perfect addition to a Sunday funday.

Turns out that amaro-based cocktail was the perfect pairing for a brunch that embraced dishes like brunch risotto made with slow cooked carnaroli rice, Carr Valley aged cheddar, caramelized onions, Hometown bacon and a poached egg ($12). 

Brunch risottoX

The risotto was ultra-creamy thanks to the beautifully starchy carnaroli – truly the “caviar” of risotto rices – which retains its shape and character while producing a tremendously silky result.

The grains of rice formed a love affair with the tangy oh-so-Wisconsin cheddar, which cloaked the flavorful bits of porky bacon and sang next to the flavor of the fresh bits of chive. And it was all topped with a perfectly poached farm egg, the yolk of which ran out over the grains of rice in a sumptuous orange stream. 

Yeah, risotto is winter comfort food. But somehow (as they often say of spicy food), warming up my insides with it on a hot day made the air feel cooler.  Or maybe it was just delicious enough that I didn’t care.

Breakfast poutine is a Goodkind classic, which they’ve been serving regularly since 2015. Not only is it nearly always worth every last calorie, but – based on my experience – it just tastes better when eaten at the restaurant. This particular version was “Poutine a la king” featuring beer battered French fries topped with Roelli cheese curds, pulled rotisserie chicken, creamy chicken gravy and a beautiful sunny-side-up egg ($13). 

Brunch poutineX

I have no idea what the Canadians would say, but this take on poutine was wildly good. It had all the comfort of chicken and biscuits, biscuits and gravy and yes – chicken a la king – thrown together over a pile of crispy battered fries. Perfect pairing for that bloody mary.

On the sweeter side, the Danish aebleskiver “pancakes” were calling my name ($10); but they’re also a fairly regular item on the brunch menu. So we opted instead for the bruleed French toast featuring battered brioche, warm blueberries and brandied whipped chevre ($10).

Bruleed French toastX

Suffice it to say, you’ve never eaten French toast (or a seeded brioche hamburger bun, for that matter) quite like this. First, it was beautiful to look at, thanks to pleasingly round shape of the French Toast, its bruleed sheen and the subtle littering of edible flowers that made it appear an edible work of art. 

The dish was swirling in little details, from the well battered bread, which offered up a creamy middle and a crisp, bruleed exterior to the fresh warm berries, which gilded an already delicious lily. And then, there was the brandied chevre, which was rich and creamy and just the right level of tangy to pull everything altogether. 

Come to think of it, that French toast was a bit like a metaphor for that Sunday brunch: altogether an experience that far surpassed the sum of its parts.

Lori Fredrich Senior Food Writer, Dining Editor, Podcast Host

Lori is an avid cook whose accrual of condiments and spices is rivaled only by her cookbook collection. Her passion for the culinary industry was birthed while balancing A&W root beer mugs as a teenage carhop, fed by insatiable curiosity and fueled by the people whose stories entwine with each and every dish. She’s had the privilege of chronicling these tales via numerous media, including OnMilwaukee and in her book “Milwaukee Food.” Her work has garnered journalism awards from entities including the Milwaukee Press Club. 

When she’s not eating, photographing food, writing or recording the FoodCrush podcast, you’ll find Lori seeking out adventures with her husband Paul, traveling, cooking, reading, learning, snuggling with her cats and looking for ways to make a difference.