Purslane, a new restaurant concept rooted in the flavors of the eastern Mediterranean, is slated to open next year at 1751 N. Farwell Ave. That’s the current location for the Ardent Tasting Room and Lounge, which will close at the end of this year.

Behind the new concept is Chef Mary Kastman, former Executive Chef of Driftless Café in Viroqua, Wisconsin, and 2022 James Beard semifinalist for Best Chef.

X

Kastman is also a longtime colleague and friend of Ardent’s Chef Justin Carlisle who she met while attending Madison College of Culinary Arts.  She interned at Restaurant Moromoto and Carlisle gave her her first job as a line cook at 43 North.

“The idea of taking over the space at Ardent came up about a year ago, and we revisited it last summer.” says Kastman. “By then it made so much sense. I was looking for a place to pursue my plans on the next level and Justin has always wanted to pass this on in some way and assist someone in pursuing their dream. So, this truly feels like a gift to me.”

Kastman, who grew up in Evanston, Illinois, says she’s excited to be putting down roots with her family in Milwaukee.

“I love Milwaukee and I love the chef community in Milwaukee. It’s very philanthropic and collegial. I love having that community and really being able to toss ideas back and forth and really hold each other up,” she says, offering a nod to friends like Chef Gregory León of Amilinda, who has generously hosted Purslane pop-ups at the restaurant. 

“I’m excited to be a part of that community,” she says. “When I was in Boston, I’d come back frequently to stage at Ardent, and for that reason – and many others –  it feels like my creative home.” 

Kastman says she hopes to open Purslane in late-spring or early summer of 2025. 

X

The journey to Purslane

Kastman began introducing the Purslane concept through a series of pop-ups beginning last July. But it’s an idea that took root while Kastman was working in Boston at restaurants including Oleana Restaurant in Cambridge and Sarma in Somerville.

“Both had a heavy Turkish bent,” she notes. “While I was there, I fell in love with the cooking and cooking methods as well as the approach to eating. I’ve traveled to Turkey several times and I’m so inspired by the vibrant spice culture and emphasis on vegetables and whole grains. If you know how to work with them and make them sing, it’s some of the most beautiful food.” 

She says that Purslane will showcase Turkish fare, but will also embrace the Levantine region more broadly including countries like Lebanon, Palestine, Israel, Jordan and Syria. It will also embrace the flavors of Morocco, a bit of Greece and the Moorish region of Spain.

Just as compelling, the cuisine at Purslane will also extend Kastman’s focus and commitment to local sourcing and supporting Wisconsin farmers.

“Luke [Zahm] was also a great mentor for me. He introduced me to the idea that a restaurant could be about more than just food. It could be a platform for social change. And that’s a conversation I’m excited to continue in a bigger city like Milwaukee with a larger audience.” 

Her goal, she says, is to take her experience in the Driftless region along with her deep connection to Wisconsin’s agricultural heritage and interpret it through an eastern Mediterranean perspective. 

“It’s the lens I’ve chosen to uplift the farmers and the food that we produce here,” she says. “And it’s the connections we make through food that I really find compelling. I remember driving through Wisconsin and realizing that the sumac that grows here on the side of the road is the same sumac that is used in Turkey, Lebanon and Palestine. Even though there’s an ocean between us, we are connected through an ingredient.” 

These connections are reflected in the name, Purslane, says Kastman.

“Purslane is an edible and highly nutritious plant used widely in cuisines throughout the world,” she says, noting that she’s been particularly compelled by applications in Middle Eastern fare. “It’s a plant that pops up everywhere – from farm fields and gardens to cracks in the sidewalk. It’s resilient and persistent and it’s something we see often but don’t necessarily recognize as important. For me it represents the promise of creating something extraordinary from the ordinary and a connection beyond borders.”

X

The Purslane experience

Although it will be months before guests can walk through the doors and experience Purslane for themselves, Kastman says that she has a clear vision for what she hopes guests will encounter.

“At Purslane, we envision a versatile dining experience where guests can gather for conversation over wine and small plates or celebrate special occasions in an intimate setting,” she says, noting that the aesthetic of the restaurant will be cozy and vibrant, decorated with colors that evoke a Mediterranean ambiance and plants to make it feel warm and welcoming. 

In turn, the menu will feature a flexible a la carte format that emphasizes meze (small plates) along with larger entree-style dishes that are also adaptable to sharing.  Meanwhile, the beverage program will offer a thoughtfully curated selection of wine, spirits and beer along with cocktails that mirror the food in terms of ingredients.

“We’ll incorporate ingredients like flower waters and spice blends into our drinks,” Kastman says and hopefully we’ll source some of our wines from the Levantine region as well.”

As for the local focus, Kastman says she’s excited to design a locally-focused menu on her own terms.

“We changed the menu every day at Driftless Cafe, and that was quite the undertaking,” she says. “I can’t say that I’m going to do that. But I’m definitely going to lean into the seasonality and focus on really perfecting dishes….”  She pauses. “I’m just so excited to showcase some of these things that I love so much.”

Milwaukeeans interested in getting an early taste of Kastman’s fare can follow Purslane on Facebook and Instagram and watch for announcements about future pop-ups.