In this series, we’ll be hiking the burger trail to find the latest, greatest and most delicious burgers in Milwaukee. Click here for an explanation of the criteria used to rate each burger. Where have we been? Check out the complete catalog of burger reviews here. 

It’s been a hot minute since I last reviewed a burger for the On the Burger Trail series. Truth be told, after eating over 180 burgers, the series had begun to feel a bit stale. No longer inspired to find the next great burger, I decided it was time to take a pause.

But thanks to the rise of a few new burger joints, along with a renewed sense of excitement for indulging in beefy bliss, I decided to bring the series back for Dining Month. If all goes well, I might try to add to the series on at least a monthly basis. I may even revisit some classic burgers and old favorites, just to see how they’ve held up over the years. Stay tuned.

Birch
459 E. Pleasant St., (414) 323-7372
birchonpleasant.com
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Since opening four years ago, Birch has carved out a niche in the Milwaukee dining scene by delivering on consistently high quality fare that pays utmost respect to locally sourced meats and vegetables. Under the direction of Chef and Owner Kyle Knall, flavor is adeptly sussed from fresh vegetables and proteins using myriad tools including the restaurant’s open wood-fired hearth.

That hearth plays a key role in the restaurant’s burger, which is available to guests at the restaurant’s Bar Room, located on the north end of the restaurant.  It's a well-appointed space where guests can grab a bite without a reservation and enjoy it in a slightly more casual environment.

It’s also the site for Birch’s happy hour, which takes place between 4 and 6 p.m. Tuesday through Friday. Offerings include a short list of food items (the Birch Burger, daily flatbread and farm fresh vegetables and dip) and select drink specials.

I popped in during happy hour last week to put the Birch Burger to the test.

The Birch Burger features two beef patties, American cheese, smoked onion aioli, quick pickles and red onion on a brioche style bun ($15.00; +$4 for potato salad). 

Note: The potato salad is fresh and flavorful. Highly recommend.

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Presentation: 10

The Birch Burger is a beautiful one. The top of the golden brioche bun shows off its toasted edge, smeared with aioli which slides alluringly across the top of the burger’s fresh pickles. Meanwhile, American cheese drapes over the top of the two browned beef patties, their edges shimmering with flavorful fat. 

Bread/Bun: 10

The brioche bun was fresh and soft with a classic sweet flavor. Its cut sides bore deep caramelization from the heat of the wood fire, giving them a crisp crust and slightly toasty flavor. 

The bun was also appropriately sized for the two beef patties, soaking up their residual fat and offering an adequately sturdy mechanism for holding onto the burger.

Burger: 10

The beef patties were nicely browned, with caramelization from being cooked over the wood fire. The meat was tender, juicy and amply fatty, with just enough texture to make it a foil for the creamy melted cheese.

When it comes to flavor, the burgers were rife with it. The patties were well seasoned and notably beefy, with a rich mouthfeel that added to the experience. Credit goes to their blend of chuck and brisket, a combination of beef cuts universally known as some of the best for creating flavorful, juicy burger patties.

Toppings: 10

As for the toppings, they were not only flavorful but beautifully balanced. The smoked onion aioli was sweet and salty, and it aptly performed the role typically served by condiments like burger sauce or ketchup and mustard.

Meanwhile, the minced, raw red onion, which was allowed to steam beneath the American cheese atop the beef patties, brought a hint of nostalgic flavor from the days when minced onions were often pressed right into the burger patties, where they steamed and imparted their flavor to the meat.

Value: 10

There’s value to this burger on numerous levels: the quality of its ingredients, the labor and consideration put into toppings like the flavorful housemade dill pickles and smoked onion aioli, and the deft use of the wood-fired hearth for nearly every element, from toasting the bun and cooking the beef patties to smoking the onions for the aioli. 

Most importantly, it’s just plain craveable. Pair it with a glass of wine and there's no question it's among the best in the city.

Total: 50/50

The Birch Burger is downright delicious with a balanced flavor that will remind you of the best double quarter pounder you never had.